Wednesday, June 29, 2016

June 29, 2016 - Holey Moley!!

On the way home again, I stopped at Bas Cuvier especially to try "Holey Moley".
It's been on my list from the first time I tried it a couple of years ago.
I hadn't tried it for years until last Winter and had given it a couple of sessions, knowing that my sessions usually last only about half an hour before I go try something else.
In the end I injured the hamstring of my left leg a bit because of the left heelhook, so I didn't try it for a while until today.

The ascent falls or stands with the condition of the two last slopers, so if conditions are not in favour, then it's almost impossible to finish it. In my case at least.
The boulder is of the kind that is difficult to find in good conditions though. Either the slopers are greasy and slippery, either it is crowded with climbers wanting to tick this classic off.

The parking was half full so I expected to find it in either one of both conditions described above.
When I approached the boulder, I tried to listen from far already, but I couldn't distinct any sounds coming from that direction.
My joy was great when I found it deserted and my joy even got holey moley when I noticed that the slopers were in pretty good shape.

The first part of the problem, up to the bad one to last sloper went like a charm from the first try on, but try after try I fell or slipped off of it, even though with every try I had the feeling I got closer inch by inch.
I guess I was right, because eventually I went holey moley when I slapped and stuck the top sloper.
After so long I can finally tick of "Holey Moley"!! Holey moley!!

Maybe it was my method (there are a lot of different methods) but for me this felt hard for the grade, even for 7A+, as I think I did the exit right, the most logical and also nicest line. It never came up in me to even try a direct exit there.

Fontainebleau - Bas Cuvier - Holey Moley 7A+(7A)


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