June 28, 2016 - Gimmie Juice.

When I drove back home from work, I stopped and parked on the Isatis carpark so I could go try "Excalibur" a bit.
I had never tried it before but it looks really nice, so why not ?
I pretty quickly realised that the sloper high on the right was in a too bad condition to keep on trying, so I gave up on it after three tries.

A little bit more than year and a half ago, I was with colleagues in Warrington, UK, for a meeting and our hotel was in Liverpool.
As many may know, Liverpool is where The Beatles started their careers.
The city actually breathes The Beatles and we were staying in the "Hard Days Night" hotel, where the main theme is, yes, The Beatles.
Everywhere in the hotel you could see pictures and artefacts of The Beatles, and songs of The Beatles  were being played all day long, even at the breakfast table.
After those couple of days, I was so fed up with The Beatles, that I had heard and seen enough of them for the rest of my life.
But I didn't count on "Beatle Juice", the classical 7A+ right next to "Excalibur".

I had tried it once shortly a couple of years ago, but always fell on the third move.
It was too hard for me back then.
As "Excalibur" wasn't possible due to conditions, and I was there anyway, I moved the crashpad under "Beatle Juice" even though the lower holds under the overhang were not in really good conditions neither.
I was so surprised with the ease I was able to cruise through the first moves that I got confused and let go.
After inspecting the upper holds and a couple of tries later I stood on top of the boulder wondering if it was me or the a-typical Bleau style that made this problem so easy this time.
Anyway, it didn't take away my joy!

Fontainebleau - Cuisinière Crête Sud - Beatle Juice 7A+

After diner I still went to try "Misfits (direct)" in Roche au Four but had to flee because of the mosquitos. I had to think of my dear dad who warned for them after all the rain we had the last weeks.

I then made my way to "Les Pieds dans la Lune" in 95.2 where I made really good progress, I even held on to the round pocket for a second, but had to give up because I was out of juice.

Compared to "Beatle Juice", this feels much harder!

It will follow soon when I'm a bit more fresh.