When I woke up around 6h30, I immediately noticed that it had stopped raining, and even though it was still dull and grey, the street looked dry.
When the streets are dry, it's usually a good indication that the boulders in most areas will be dry too.
I wrote Jean-Pierre about these conditions and he answered that he will give it a chance.
I got out of bed, took a quick breakfast and left before anyone else at home was awake. Rain was announced for 11h so I wanted to make sure to climb something before it started.
Even though some drops fell while I was driving towards Gorges du Houx Petit Paradis, it were just some drops and the boulders were dry at the sector of "La Diagonale du Fou".
I checked the time and it was only 8h15 when I started to warm up with the dyno of "L'Hypoténuse du Fou" which I did on my second try. My style!
Fontainebleau - Gorges du Houx Petit Paradis - L'Hypoténuse du Fou 7A
Two meters to the left of it, is the problem "La Diagonale du Fou", one of the two problems that I really wanted to try.
Unfortunately, I didn't get further than two tries because even the crux holds were dry, the starting jug was humid and made my fingertips slippery. Something one really doesn't want when the you need all the friction to be able to pull hard on the tiny crack above to make the dyno.
The other problem that I really wanted to try was "Tribune" at 50m from there.
A beautiful short compression problem but with a bad landing with that big boulder in the back.
I had to work out the moves separately and give it a couple of tries before I dared to commit myself completely.
My left elbow had suffered a bit from working out the moves and I knew I had to it soon before it would become to weak to try again.
I screamed on purpose to give me that extra adrenalin against the pain and for extra power. Even though I didn't really like that screaming, it did help because I was able to finish it, albeit with a lot of pain in my left elbow.
It was worth it, a beautiful problem, and special in that way that it was for my 300th video!!
Unfortunately, I didn't get further than two tries because even the crux holds were dry, the starting jug was humid and made my fingertips slippery. Something one really doesn't want when the you need all the friction to be able to pull hard on the tiny crack above to make the dyno.
The other problem that I really wanted to try was "Tribune" at 50m from there.
A beautiful short compression problem but with a bad landing with that big boulder in the back.
I had to work out the moves separately and give it a couple of tries before I dared to commit myself completely.
My left elbow had suffered a bit from working out the moves and I knew I had to it soon before it would become to weak to try again.
I screamed on purpose to give me that extra adrenalin against the pain and for extra power. Even though I didn't really like that screaming, it did help because I was able to finish it, albeit with a lot of pain in my left elbow.
It was worth it, a beautiful problem, and special in that way that it was for my 300th video!!
Fontainebleau - Gorges du Houx Petit Paradis - Tribune 7B
By then, I had texted a bit back and forth with Jean-Pierre and he was in Coquibus Grandes Vallées.
When he wrote that he had topped "Perle de Crête 1" and still wanted to do the variation "Grimpe Etait Toit", I decided to go meet him up there as it was on the way home anyway.
The plan was to go up the hill to spot Jean-Pierre and I doubted, but took my stuff with me anyway.
After arriving on top of the hill, I greeted JP and saw him climb and top out "Grimpe Etait Toit" with ease. That looks like a lot of moves for a pure boulderer like me.
I remember standing in front of it a couple of months ago and with the small boulder right above the topout of "Perle de Crête 1", I decided not to do it then but wait for another time when the occasion would be that I was there with some extra pads and a spotter. I did give it a quick try then though but I chickened out. Any other day.
Today was any other day.
JP convinced me and I topped out the problem on my first attempt of the day, the second attempt all in all, even though I could have flashed it last time if I would have been more confident that day.
When he wrote that he had topped "Perle de Crête 1" and still wanted to do the variation "Grimpe Etait Toit", I decided to go meet him up there as it was on the way home anyway.
The plan was to go up the hill to spot Jean-Pierre and I doubted, but took my stuff with me anyway.
After arriving on top of the hill, I greeted JP and saw him climb and top out "Grimpe Etait Toit" with ease. That looks like a lot of moves for a pure boulderer like me.
I remember standing in front of it a couple of months ago and with the small boulder right above the topout of "Perle de Crête 1", I decided not to do it then but wait for another time when the occasion would be that I was there with some extra pads and a spotter. I did give it a quick try then though but I chickened out. Any other day.
Today was any other day.
JP convinced me and I topped out the problem on my first attempt of the day, the second attempt all in all, even though I could have flashed it last time if I would have been more confident that day.
Fontainebleau - Coquibus Grandes Vallées - Perle de Crête 1 7A
After a short 5 minute break, JP didn't need much convincing for me to try "Grimpe Etait Toit" too.
It is the same problem but the topout is about 2m more to the left than "Perle de Crête 1".
It went down on my first attempt, but took the last energy of me.
It was time to call it a day and it was only 11h.
I thanked Jean-Pierre for the motivation and the spotting and went to the bakery in Milly to get some bread and pastries for a late brunch with the family at home.
It is the same problem but the topout is about 2m more to the left than "Perle de Crête 1".
It went down on my first attempt, but took the last energy of me.
It was time to call it a day and it was only 11h.
I thanked Jean-Pierre for the motivation and the spotting and went to the bakery in Milly to get some bread and pastries for a late brunch with the family at home.
Fontainebleau - Coquibus Grandes Vallées - Grimpe Etait Toit 7A
No comments:
Post a Comment