The weather was perfect and it simply smelled like perfect conditions! Spring was in the air!
Bois Rond Auberge was my first choice for on the way home. We finish at 16h on Friday so I had some more time to spend.
My main project in the area is the instant classic "Le Grand Requin Blanc", the Great White Shark.
When you look at the boulder from the side, you don't need much imagination to see the Great White jumping out of the water with its mouth opened wide, ready to put its teeth in whatever or whoever crosses its path.
Visually just beautiful.
I had been trying it off and on since last Summer, and had been waiting for the good conditions that it requires.
The last couple of short sessions, I was able to do all the moves separately and do the complete problem in 2 parts, but each time when I tried from the start, I lacked on remaining power to do the big dynamic move to the right.
Just like with "Onde de Choc", I always tried the problem at the end or near to the end of a climbing day. So just like "Onde de Choc" I needed to try it when being still fresh.
When I was driving from work towards the area, I had this typical feeling that today was going to be the day. I had a stressed out week and needed to let it all go now.
I arrived at about 16h30 at the boulder and saw that the light was perfect. The slopers were in the sun, but still cold enough to stick. I saw it as a sign and set off my first try. I did the dynamic move, stuck the far right flat hold but still came off in the end.
It was a good first try though and I had to calm myself down because I was getting nervous.
I repeated all the separate moves and took a short 2 minute rest before I tried it from the start again.
When I arrived on the slopers to prepare for the jump, I immediately felt that I arrived much lighter and fresher. I swung and while moving sideways, I let my feet go so they wouldn't stop my movement. I stuck the flat hold on the right and started compressing both arms to not let go of the left sloper.
I hung with both feet above the ground and tried to stay calm to position my feet and body for the next move.
My right hand slipped off too early when I pulled up to make the last move to the top and while being in the movement, there was a fraction of a second that I thought I was not going to make it, but I slapped far enough and was a little lucky that I didn't come off anymore.
A long term project off the list.
Beautiful problem with superbe moves!
Fontainebleau - Bois Rond Auberge - Le Grand Requin Blanc 7B
I had caught myself a big fish there and still had an ocean of time so I kept on fishing.
"Le Requin Lutin", the Fighting Shark, is a variation on the same boulder. It starts the same but instead of making the big move to the right, you have to take a sharp crimp, mantle up into the wall and exit above at the side of the shark's head.
I had tried it just once during one of my previous sessions on the shark, but the crimp was too sharp for the little skin I still had left. Now my skin was still fresh and thick.
I looked at the problem, imagined doing the mantle and sat down for the start.
I arrived at the crimp with full force, curled my skin deeply over the small sharp edge and started pulling. Was it the adrenalin, or the thick skin ? I don't know, but I didn't feel a thing and stood on top the of the boulder again seconds later.
I looked at my fingers and saw a rather deep cut in my skin but it was only the outer part.
First go of today and my second go overall on this one.
Another big one on the hook.
Fontainebleau - Bois Rond Auberge - Le Requin Lutin 7A+
Right next to this nice "shark boulder" is another "shark boulder" with a couple of problems on it.
When looking at it like on the video, one can see another shark's head coming out of the water, going for its prey.
The 7A+ that starts on the left arete, I had already and have it on video, but the easier one on the right I still had to do, "Les Dents de la Mer", The Teeth of the Sea.
The one time I tried it, it had started snowing, wet melting snow, and when I stood near the top, the slopers were so slippery that I didn't dare to pull on.
I was scared to slip and fall with my back on the tree just behind me so I jumped off in a controlled way.
Today, perfect conditions, easy going and I added another shark in the net.
Fontainebleau - Bois Rond Auberge - Les Dents de la Mer 6C
I felt like I was on a sending spree and didn't feel like stopping yet.
I was thinking of another small project that I could try on the way further home.
At Rocher Cailleau, on the "Vandale" boulder, there is also a difficult 7A+(7A) that has been also a long term project.
All the people I heard who tried or did it say that it is a hard one. I share their opinion, and even though I found the trick, it's still hard.
I will not say what it is, it's difficult to see it on the video. I just don't want to spoil the fun for those who still have to do it.
I will tell those who request to know.
According to me, finding out the trick is the hardest part, but also the most fun part of the problem.
Fontainebleau - Rocher Cailleau - C'est à Sept B 7A+(7A)
I came home at the same time as on another working day where we finish at 17h and drove straight home.
A short session, but it was a good catch!!
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