It's really hard to drive home from work, pass all these climbing areas and not stop for a short climb.
I couldn't resist, checked the skin on my fingertips, nodded to myself, confirming that it will do.
I stopped at Apremont Butte aux Dames.
I really like the area, with all the new problems being right next to the parking.
With the skin having grown back just barely enough, I was able to resist from going straight to "Game One" of which I knew it would be a bad idea with these slopers, so I set my mind on something with more positive holds.
One of my last visits I tried the traverse of "Les Ailes du Plaisir". I nearly flashed it then, but fell out of the last move.
I normally don't like those traverses where the crux is in the last move, but this one has some really nice moves. Definitely worth the effort!
Today also, I fell on the last move of my first try.
It made me realise that maybe it would a good idea to try the last moves first and do the complete problem once I get acquainted with them.
Normally it starts about 1,5 meter more to the left, just around the corner.
About the last moves ... well, I got there, but I lost the ethics somewhere on the way.
Fontainebleau - Apremont Butte aux Dames - Les Ailes du Plaisir (raccourci) 7A(7A+)
About 20m from "Les Ailes du Plaisir", you can find "Un Jeu d'Enfant", opened by our friend Tony Fouchereau and for once he allows the sitstart from a crashpad for the little among us.
Tony is a big guy, and I consider myself little compared to him.
Even sitting on the crashpad, I really had trouble reaching both starting holds.
It's a hard first move.
Arms spread open wide, being completely stretched out, squeezing them into compression, letting the feet go from the ground and going for the heelhook on the right. Had to hold my breath there!
Once you get the heelhook right, it's not over yet, but the hardest part is.
If the start would have been less morpho, I would have said that 7A is soft for the grade, but now it felt like spot on.
Once you get the heelhook right, it's not over yet, but the hardest part is.
If the start would have been less morpho, I would have said that 7A is soft for the grade, but now it felt like spot on.
Fontainebleau - Apremont Butte aux Dames - Un Jeu d'Enfant 7A
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