Work has been non-stop again and I desperately needed to let off some steam.
There's almost no better way to do that than going for a quick climb on the way home.
It's almost cliché, but Gorge aux Châts is always a good choice for a short afterwork climb when time is limited.
One of the oldest problems in Gorge aux Châts Sud is "Machine Head".
With only 4 registered repetitions it's a rarely repeated problem. However, I think that this will change soon because that part of the area is gaining in popularity thanks to the recently published problems.
I first saw "Machine Head" a couple of years ago and I remember that it looked ugly back then.
It was more mossy and the high vegetation around it made that it was slow drying. So I skipped it.
But then I started trying more other problems in that sector, and here and there I did some tries in "Machine Head" too.
The more I tried it, the more I started to like it.
It's the kind of problem that I have to try a lot to get used to the moves and execute them without thinking and losing time and thus power.
Each move separately is not that difficult, but it's the repositioning of the body in between moves (or is that a move too?) that makes it so hard.
When I was finally standing near the top, it still wasn't done, there was still a nasty, dried out mossy topout to come and I was really running out of power.
Every second I fought and struggled to keep my grip on the holds. Chances were big that if I fell, I would have to give up due to loss of strength.
Seconds, that felt like minutes, later, the fat lady sang and I was standing on the top. "Machine Head" was done!
Fontainebleau - Gorge aux Châts Sud - Machine Head 7B
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