Sunday, March 22, 2026

March 22, 2026 - Check mate.

Last week I started trying a project in a very little known area and decided to not post any details until I finish it. I had tried it briefly once in 2023 and even though I had added it to my wantlist, I hadn't gone back to it until last week. Three years I could barely do any of the moves, but last week I managed to unlock all the separate moves and even made some good links. Only three very hard moves, and even harder when trying to do them in a row, so I didn't manage to get away with the send yet. I was determined to go back this weekend and went back yesterday, joined by Jan (Gorrebeeck) who needed some time off in the forest. Still no send, but at least it was a good training, trying all the moves over and over again.

This morning, my body felt sore from trying hard the day before, but I was going to meet Jan in Boissy-aux-Cailles as we agreed to climb a bit in Boissy Le Plaid, trying to avoid the crowds. Not long after I parked my car, Jan wrote me that he overslept, so I went ahead, thinking to use the time to try "Échec", one of the few boulders that I had never tried before due to several reasons. It wasn't after a long time that I had done the separate moves, except for the topout. Doing the crux move again, letting go of the feet and placing the right heel, proved to be real challenge. I don't have long legs so it was nearly impossible to take the oblique left hand crimp exactly how I needed, making the crux feel so much harder and slipping off at crucial moments many times. After a longer rest though, it suddenly all clicked. I broke through and topped out. It was a huge relief standing on top of the boulder, as I was very close to still fall off at the mantle.

Fontainebleau - Boissy Le Plaid - Échec 7C(7B+)

Saturday, March 14, 2026

March 14, 2026 - Unexpected.

After a huge amount of rain yesterday and with cloudy grey weather forecasted for today, I wasn't expecting to climb today, but this morning the sun was shining and it was already here and there around my house. I had planned to spend the day working on my barn project, but as it unexpectedly looked possible to climb, I went out in the morning. Still wanting to spend more time than last week on my barn project, I chose something quick drying not far from home and went to try "Prime d'Activité (assis)" in Rocher du Guetteur.
When there were no clouds in front of the sun, it felt already quite warm at that sunny spot, but still cold enough to notice good conditions. The friction felt good. It took me some time to learn the crux move, the dyno to the arete far left, but the progress was quick and steady. Not even half an hour after I arrived, I was able to finish it and pack up for going back home to work on my barn project. I was able to have both after all, unexpected.

Fontainebleau - Rocher du Guetteur - Prime d'Activité (assis) 7B

Sunday, March 8, 2026

March 08, 2026 - Priority given.

As I wrote yesterday, I had found a new priority project in "La Force Vient du Ventre". I felt quite exhausted this morning due to the labor on my barn project, but by the time I had done my morning habits, I felt stronger and decided to back to Rocher du Mauvais Passage. There was a dense fog, but the friction felt good, maybe even better than yesterday, or maybe it was just because dried out skin due to working with lime mortar yesterday. 
On my warmup attempt, I immediately noticed that I was still in the flow I ended with yesterday, but just missed the far last harder move. On my second attempt, it flowed again and this time I didn't miss the last hard move. I kept calm, realizing that it's still possible to fall off from the topout. It all went like a charm and I topped out.
A great problem that doesn't feel like a traverse despite being catalogued as one.

Fontainebleau - Rocher du Mauvais Passage - La Force Vient du Ventre 7C(7B+)

Saturday, March 7, 2026

March 07, 2026 - Pushing the motivation.

My barn project has been taking a lot of my attention and energy and I somehow felt that I had to force myself to keep the climbing motivation going. Not that I didn't want to climb, but the lack of attention I gave to it made my drive to send go down a bit. This week, I forced myself to pick a climbing project and psyche myself for it. For some reason, it became "La Force Vient du Ventre" in Rocher du Mauvais Passage, with "La Bague Superflue" as a second option. To be able to divide my time well today between climbing and working in my barn, I left quite early already and decided to first try "La Bague Superflue" as a sort of warmup. The other one is quite long, and I wanted to gauge my level first.
I felt quite good and barely half an hour later, I was able to stick both dynos for the second time, kept focused and topped out "La Bague Superflue". Maybe not the hardest of the grade, but it was good for my morale and boosted my motivation.

Fontainebleau - Rocher du Mauvais Passage - La Bague Superflue 7B



I spent about an hour working out the moves of "La Force Vient du Ventre", which went quite good. By the time I had it all figured out though and was able to flow through the moves, I was getting tired and after finally doing the last hard move when coming from the start, I suddenly felt the energy being sucked out of my forearms and knew that it was time to call it a day. I was very happy with the session though and the progress I had made in this quite long boulder. Maybe a new priority climbing project.

Sunday, March 1, 2026

March 01, 2026 - My current biggest project.

My biggest project at the moment is not a climbing project. A couple of weeks ago, I started pointing the inside walls of my barn. A project that would cost me about 15000 euros when a professional made me an offer a few years ago. It wasn't necessary at that time and still isn't today, but as it would make the place more finished, I decided to take on the work myself. I only have time during the weekends and I'm not a professional, so I realize that it will probably be a multi year project given the sheer size of the barn and me not wanting to spend full days on it. I prefer to climb in the morning and later during the day spend a few hours pointing, which is quite an exhausting job. I'm not in a hurry though and the part that I did already is growing steadily and already makes a big difference. Those who know my barn can probably imagine what an undertaking this is.

After having had quite a good up with my climbing lately, it is now in a down. A wave pattern that I have gotten used to though and it doesn't bother me that much anymore; I know that a next up will come again.
During my short visit to the Rocher Saint-Germain Ouest area, I did get away with a jump start version of "XXL (direct)". The static start just feels way too morpho for me.

Fontainebleau - Rocher Saint-Germain Ouest - XXL (direct départ sauté) 7A+(7B)