Yesterday, I met up with Olaf, Jan and Tom at Apremont Mare aux Biches. Olaf and I were there first, and while waiting for Jan and Tom, we played around a bit in "Onde Sensuelle". We both already did "Onde Sensuelle" three and five years ago respectively, but we were curious how the direct version, following the slopey arete, would feel. The scenery was perfect out there in the sun, which made it quite warm, causing the friction of the slopers to feel quite bad, but despite that, it was fun playing around on the boulder.
After a whole week of climbing, Jan and Tom were taking a rest day, but joined us to keep us company. We had a great time.
Olaf was having his 23rd consecutive of climbing, but quite easily flashed "Vive les Hommes (gauche)" on the backside of the boulder of "Vive les Femmes". I followed in his footsteps by flashing the problem as well.
Fontainebleau - Apremont Mare aux Biches - Vive les Hommes (gauche) 7A
Immediately after, we also did the direct version on our first attempt, while Jan, despite his rest day, put on his shoes and also climbed "Vive les Femmes (gauche)".
Fontainebleau - Apremont Mare aux Biches - Vive les Hommes 6C
Even though being an absolute classic, for some reason, I had never tried "Le Gong" and that day seemed like the perfect to try it.
To be completely honest, I underestimated the problem, and thought that the first part would have been easier. But still I was able to top out this beautiful classic after a handful of attempts.
It seemed to have triggered Jan's attention, because he also put on his climbing shoes again and despite needed a bit more time and attempt, he got away with the send too.
To be completely honest, I underestimated the problem, and thought that the first part would have been easier. But still I was able to top out this beautiful classic after a handful of attempts.
It seemed to have triggered Jan's attention, because he also put on his climbing shoes again and despite needed a bit more time and attempt, he got away with the send too.
Fontainebleau - Apremont Mare aux Biches - Le Gong 7A+
The weather today was nothing like yesterday, but Olaf, Jan and I met up to climb in an isolated sector of Coquibus Grandes Vallées, quite some distance of the main area, assuring ourselves to spend the whole day alone again. Our first stop was at the boulder of "Culbuto", not far from the road. I had tried "Culbuto" one session in 2018, but even though I could quickly do the first part, couldn't do the quite hard mantle. Given the sketchy landing with a few boulders that one can fall on, I had never gone back for it until today.
Thanks to the extra crashpads and the confidence in some excellent spotters, it didn't make me long this time to finish it. An absolutely very nice boulder, and the mantle makes it quite hard for the grade.
Jand and Olaf were doing some good attempts, but a few little rain showers forced us all to take some breaks and even seek shelter under the boulder. Luckily it weren't big amounts of rain, so it dried quickly quite fast each time, after which the conditions of the slopers felt better each time. We were in the meantime joined by Anna (or Ana), a friend from Olaf and Jan and who I got to know a bit today.
After a longer rainshower, the boulder needed some more time to dry again and while waiting, we had a walk around and went to have a look at the boulders in the sector. By the time we got back at "Culbuto", it was dry and in the best conditions of the day, so I decided to climb it again, with much more control than before. Olaf and Jan were tired, but still put up a huge fight. Olaf almost made it, but had to let it go for today.
Jan's last attempt was a huge fight, and I don't think I have ever seen him fighting so hard on a mantle ever before. Under loud encouragent of all of us and the sounds of a grunting Jan, he made his way to the top. It was a funny, but great moment.
Anna (or Ana) closed off the session doing "Divagation", the problem the rest of warmed up with, but she still put up an impressive fight.
Thanks to the extra crashpads and the confidence in some excellent spotters, it didn't make me long this time to finish it. An absolutely very nice boulder, and the mantle makes it quite hard for the grade.
Jand and Olaf were doing some good attempts, but a few little rain showers forced us all to take some breaks and even seek shelter under the boulder. Luckily it weren't big amounts of rain, so it dried quickly quite fast each time, after which the conditions of the slopers felt better each time. We were in the meantime joined by Anna (or Ana), a friend from Olaf and Jan and who I got to know a bit today.
After a longer rainshower, the boulder needed some more time to dry again and while waiting, we had a walk around and went to have a look at the boulders in the sector. By the time we got back at "Culbuto", it was dry and in the best conditions of the day, so I decided to climb it again, with much more control than before. Olaf and Jan were tired, but still put up a huge fight. Olaf almost made it, but had to let it go for today.
Jan's last attempt was a huge fight, and I don't think I have ever seen him fighting so hard on a mantle ever before. Under loud encouragent of all of us and the sounds of a grunting Jan, he made his way to the top. It was a funny, but great moment.
Anna (or Ana) closed off the session doing "Divagation", the problem the rest of warmed up with, but she still put up an impressive fight.
Fontainebleau - Coquibus Grandes Vallées - Culbuto 7A
It was a great weekend, and the company of everyone present made ma completely forget the miserable work week that I had this week. We were all riding the same wave, all equal, no matter of who climbed what.
