Fontainebleau - Rocher de la Reine - Take It Easier 7A(7A+)
Last weekend, on Saturday, the conditions weren't too bad later in the day thanks to quite some wind, but I had left the house a bit too early. On top of that, I wasn't feeling in shape and didn't manage to top out anything, besides a 6A at the warmup.
Also last weekend, on Sunday, it rained as good a the whole day, so I only went out for a walk around Dame Jouanne. I mainly wanted to see "Perudo" and on my way there, I did get a glimpse of "Le Plafond". Even though I didn't even walk over to "Le Plafond", but continued straight towards "Perudo", I couldn't stop thinking about finally trying the very popular "Le Plafond" during the whole week. It only made sense for me to finally go try "Le Plafond" this morning.
"Le Plafond" is a long and very popular roof and besides having a look at it many years ago, I somehow never even tried it. Today, I wanted to at least try it and hopefully get away with a send. One can't do the second without the first, but the first can be done without the second.
It was near freezing this morning, and I took my time to warm up and try all the moves separately. As soon as I had been able to do all of them, I turned on the camera and starting trying the whole thing. Maybe, I should have tried doing some better links first, because I lost a lot of time and energy falling off due to stupid little mistakes. I did end up sending it though, and it felt good. A really beautiful line.
Also last weekend, on Sunday, it rained as good a the whole day, so I only went out for a walk around Dame Jouanne. I mainly wanted to see "Perudo" and on my way there, I did get a glimpse of "Le Plafond". Even though I didn't even walk over to "Le Plafond", but continued straight towards "Perudo", I couldn't stop thinking about finally trying the very popular "Le Plafond" during the whole week. It only made sense for me to finally go try "Le Plafond" this morning.
"Le Plafond" is a long and very popular roof and besides having a look at it many years ago, I somehow never even tried it. Today, I wanted to at least try it and hopefully get away with a send. One can't do the second without the first, but the first can be done without the second.
It was near freezing this morning, and I took my time to warm up and try all the moves separately. As soon as I had been able to do all of them, I turned on the camera and starting trying the whole thing. Maybe, I should have tried doing some better links first, because I lost a lot of time and energy falling off due to stupid little mistakes. I did end up sending it though, and it felt good. A really beautiful line.
Fontainebleau - Dame Jouanne - Le Plafond 7B+(7B)
Last week, I had also walked by the beautiful steep overhang of "Dévertige" on the top of the hill, and figured that with the time and energy that I still had left, that I would go try it.
I must admit that it looked harder than I expected, because this was almost a sending train just by myself. Just trying to see if I could do the start, I ended up flashing the 7A "Dévertige (direct)". It was so unexpected that I hadn't even bothered to turn on the camera already.
Feeling confident after the flash of the direct version, I turned on the camera and did "Dévertige (gauche)" immediately, on my first attempt.
Feeling confident after the flash of the direct version, I turned on the camera and did "Dévertige (gauche)" immediately, on my first attempt.
Fontainebleau - Dame Jouanne - Dévertige (gauche) 7A+
I wasn't really attracted by the longer version, "Dévertige", which traverses all the way to the right, but now that I was there, I decided to give it a go.
Surprisingly, on my first attempt, I made it all the way to the jug on the right, but missed the easy topout due to a footslip, bad conditions on the top, and not really what to to do.
I took some time to do the topout separately, took a short break and was able to finish it on my second attempt, barely ten minutes after the first one. Unfortunately, the battery of my camera doesn't like the cold and had decided to call it a day in the meantime. Therefor, I only have a video of my first attempt, failing on the topout. Bummer, but so be it.
Surprisingly, on my first attempt, I made it all the way to the jug on the right, but missed the easy topout due to a footslip, bad conditions on the top, and not really what to to do.
I took some time to do the topout separately, took a short break and was able to finish it on my second attempt, barely ten minutes after the first one. Unfortunately, the battery of my camera doesn't like the cold and had decided to call it a day in the meantime. Therefor, I only have a video of my first attempt, failing on the topout. Bummer, but so be it.
Fontainebleau - Dame Jouanne - Dévertige 7B (failed topout on the first attempt)
