Saturday, July 26, 2025

July 26, 2025 - Heat is a crux.

First, a video from last Tuesday evening, when I went for a quick climb in Rocher Guichot after dinner. Just playing around in some of the moves of "L'Atelier", and ended doing a dyno from about the middle of "L'Atelier", straight up. The topout was lichened and required some brushing beforehand, but when Christophe (Laumone) passed by coincidently, I asked him, and he confirmed that it had been done already ages ago. I couldn't find any information about it on bleau.info, so until any information pops up, I named it "Jeté Oublié".

Fontainebleau - Rocher Guichot - Jeté Oublié 7A(6C+)



This morning, I walked the whole way to Rocher Fin, which didn't turn out to be a very good idea. I don't go there often and I can't even remember when the last time was. There were two problems that I had in mind, "La Micholeg (assis)" and "El Kift". Unfortunately, both were full in the sun, and it was much hotter than it felt this morning when I left the house. Due to the still growing heat, I didn't even bother trying "La Micholeg (assis)", and dedicated all my attention and effort trying "El Kift".
I had briefly tried "El Kift" a few times in the past, but never for long,because I was never able to come close to doing the first move. My first attempts today weren't any better, but despite the heat, I made slow progress and decided to stick with it. The boulder being full in the sun, made me take small breaks in the shade after about every two attempts. It was somewhat annoying and I almost decided to leave when I suddenly stuck the first move and almost matched the small crimp. With a boosted motivation, I kept trying and suddenly was able to match the crimp and go for the sloper higher up. I knew that I could that last part and I thought it was going to be a done deal, but the warm slopers and crimps made me doubt and I still fell off where I shouldn't have anymore.
Knowing now that slopers and crimps at the top were feeling so warm, I at least knew what to expect and was quite confident that I would be able to topout if only I would be able to repeat what I just did. After a short break in the shade, I did everything the same, except for the end. This time I was able to top it out.

Fontainebleau - Rocher Fin - El Kift 7B+(7B)

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