The starting position is a bit strange, but once I knew what to do and figured out the moves, it went down quickly.
Fontainebleau - Long Rocher - Un Vendredi 13 7A+
This morning, I made a good choice by going to Coquibus Longs Vaux to try "À Préhension". A big quite low, but very shady roof. Perfect to try on hot Summer days like today.
I warmed with the easy topout, after which I figured out the first part quite quickly. The middle section with the left heelhook and the very far reachy move to the lip gave me some trouble, but after perfecting the heelhook position, it became quite consistent. I had a few good attempts getting up to the lip, but the dynamic move to the jug up on the lip felt extremely wild and I couldn't hold it without hitting the ground or the crashpad.
During a short break, I watched a few videos posted online and noticed that all of them were going right hand to the jug instead of the left, like I had been trying. It seemed strange at first, but when I checked it out, it did seem logical in a way. It seemed like going right hand would allow for the left heelhook to stick a fraction of a second longer, a small detail that could make a lot of difference.
After the break, I was determined to try it that way, and miraculously, it worked out on my first try. The swing was wild, but I had the jug and I wasn't going to let go. Having done the topout as a warmup a bit earlier, I didn't get nervous and topped out just like I knew I would. Great problem!
I warmed with the easy topout, after which I figured out the first part quite quickly. The middle section with the left heelhook and the very far reachy move to the lip gave me some trouble, but after perfecting the heelhook position, it became quite consistent. I had a few good attempts getting up to the lip, but the dynamic move to the jug up on the lip felt extremely wild and I couldn't hold it without hitting the ground or the crashpad.
During a short break, I watched a few videos posted online and noticed that all of them were going right hand to the jug instead of the left, like I had been trying. It seemed strange at first, but when I checked it out, it did seem logical in a way. It seemed like going right hand would allow for the left heelhook to stick a fraction of a second longer, a small detail that could make a lot of difference.
After the break, I was determined to try it that way, and miraculously, it worked out on my first try. The swing was wild, but I had the jug and I wasn't going to let go. Having done the topout as a warmup a bit earlier, I didn't get nervous and topped out just like I knew I would. Great problem!
Fontainebleau - Coquibus Longs Vaux - À Préhension 7C+(7C)
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