Wednesday, March 2, 2022

March 02, 2022 - 56kg of potatoes.

Last weekend I was in an extremely rubbish shape for some reason and I didn't do more than walking from boulder to boulder, trying to climb, but got slammed by each single one of them. It was like a 56kg sac of potatoes trying to get on a boulder, there is no way.
On Sunday though, I did somehow manage to work out the moves of "Turbo" in Rocher du Télégraphe, and was even to do it in two overlapping parts. That was the best climbing of the whole weekend. As soon as I was home after that session, I did add it "Turbo" to my wantlist to not forget about it, but I had already in mind then to go back for it on Wednesday, today.

I had absolutely no idea what to expect when I was walking towards "Turbo" this morning, but already after my first attempt on it, I could feel that it might be possible today. That was at least my impression until I pulled a split in my right middle finger when using the tiny crimp under the overhang to stop me from swinging off the slopey arete. I decided to work out a slightly different method, avoiding that tiny crimp. I did find one, but as increased the number of attempts drastically, I needed to take a short break.
After the break, I released some steam and sent "Turbo" right away.

Fontainebleau - Rocher du Télégraphe - Turbo 7C



I still had time and was motivated, so I moved over to the beautiful boulder of "Le Cadeau" to try once more the quite hard "Le Cadeau Empoisonné". I had tried this already several short sessions, but never got to the point where I could get to the high edge. To my pleasant surprise, I was able to reach and hold it this time, so the game was on. It became a matter of getting there again and daring to top out with the hard mantle. 
I almost chickened out, but after some good brushing of the slopey mantle, did find the courage to go all the way and struggle myself on top of it.
In my opinion, and in the opinion of 60% of the repeaters, this is rather 7B. In any case, a beautiful line on a first class boulder.

Fontainebleau - Rocher du Télégraphe - Le Cadeau Empoisonné 7A+(7B)

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