Sunday, March 6, 2022

March 06, 2022 - Runner up.

My son was participating in a 10km run through the forest and had to be on the parking of the cemetery of our village Noisy-sur-Ecole at 9h this morning to get his number and chip for time registration. The start was at 9h30. I dropped him off around 8h30 and used the occasion to go for a climb in Justice de Noisy. As it has been dry for a good number of days, I had the idea to try the very slow drying "Les Experts de la Grimpe". Unfortunately, the big key sloper on the top was still humid after so much time without rain, so I had quick look around for something else to try. The very nearby "Crache ton Venin" was a good choice. It was the right time to try it now that the ferns were all gone and not growing back yet. Hidden between some other boulders, it seemed like a quick and easy catch, but I did need some time to work out the moves. With an easy topout, the grade was definitely established at the first moves just inches above the ground. It looked easy, but it turned out hard enough for the 7A+ grade.

Fontainebleau - Justice de Noisy - Crache ton Venin 7A+(7A)



Right next to "Crache ton Venin", there is the 'floating' boulder of "Virgule Flottante", one that I had tried once, but couldn't find a way to reach high enough on the arete left hand. I doubted for a minute, but as I was there now, I figured I would give another chance.
This time though, I took my time and figured out a way to reach high enough using a beautiful left kneebar. A much nicer climb than I thought last time when I left empty handed. Grade wise, I would have believed it if someone would have told it was low end 7B, but I'll stick with high end 7A+.

Fontainebleau - Justice de Noisy - Virgule Flottante 7A(7B)



Last, but not least, I had a look at the other slow drying boulder of "Pascal Brutal". I had tried this once before as well, but couldn't find a working method for what seemed like the crux move. This time, I worked it out separately and was a bit surprised that was unlock that sequence. By the time I wanted to give it some attempts from the start, my son had finished his run and had joined me where I was. He was proud to say that he finished in second place in his category. Not bad for his first time running 10km. A couple of attempts later, I felt proud as well when I topped out "Pascal  Brutal".
This problem is much nicer than it looked at first. If it wouldn't be so slow drying, it could very well be a very popular problem.
It was barely noon, and I had already finished my session. It was okay though, it was a good one.

Fontainebleau - Justice de Noisy - Pascal Brutal 7B+(7C)


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