This aggressive approach is worrying to say the least.
I went to Apremont Désert this morning, but the good weather that they announced yesterday hadn't arrived yet. The sky was grey, looked menacing and the clouds even let out some drops now and then.
Luckily, the boulders were not wet anymore when I walked through the area, but I wouldn't say that the conditions were good. The only good thing about the weather was that it was a mild 20°C, not too hot for climbing.
I warmed up with a direct version of "Pas de Boutons!", which went down pretty fast.
Fontainebleau - Apremont Désert - Pas de Boutons! (direct) 7A
Next, I decided to go for the lower start version, sitting in the back of the roof and adding a very reachy move with a hard swing to the knob like holds.
On my first attempt, I went with the wrong hand and thinking that the crashpad was right below me, I let go with the intention to fall on my back softly. This couldn't have been less true. Instead of falling with my back on the pad, I fell with my spine directly on a small boulder right next to it. It hurt like crazy.
The adrenalin was luckily pumping through my veins so I was able to continue my attempts until I was successful.
On my first attempt, I went with the wrong hand and thinking that the crashpad was right below me, I let go with the intention to fall on my back softly. This couldn't have been less true. Instead of falling with my back on the pad, I fell with my spine directly on a small boulder right next to it. It hurt like crazy.
The adrenalin was luckily pumping through my veins so I was able to continue my attempts until I was successful.
Fontainebleau - Apremont Désert - Pas de Boutons! (du fond) 7B
I could feel my back stiffening up, but still continued with the nearby "La Squille (assis)", starting with my butt on the ground.
Fitting my style, I did this on my first attempt.
Fitting my style, I did this on my first attempt.
Fontainebleau - Apremont Désert - La Squille (assis du sol) 7A+(7B)
For "L'Attaque de la Squille" on the same boulder, I needed two attempts. Using toehooks, this fit my style as well.
I was glad in a way that I got to do these so quickly, because the adrenalin was running out, and the pain on my back was getting worse with every minute. By the time I arrived home, I could barely get out of the car. Now it even hurts to simply lift my arms up. Could be a rough night to come.
I was glad in a way that I got to do these so quickly, because the adrenalin was running out, and the pain on my back was getting worse with every minute. By the time I arrived home, I could barely get out of the car. Now it even hurts to simply lift my arms up. Could be a rough night to come.
Fontainebleau - Apremont Désert - L'Attaque de la Squille (du sol) 7B(7A+)
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