I had taken a day off to finish some paint work that I started last weekend, but I had planned to do that in the afternoon so I could go to Buthiers in the morning to try "La Neuvième Forme", a new beautiful prow opened by Oliver Lebreton.
It took some time to move comfortably in those beautiful moves of the first part, it was scary to do the second part, but I chickened out on the last two moves. Even though I gained more and more confidence in the second part, with every attempt, I didn't trust the friction enough today. Such a beautiful line, but I will have to come back for it. Not that I mind having to work again another day in piece of art.
On the way back, I stopped at a more remote part of the area to try "Taisez-Vous et Mangez, Vermines! (assis)". A short explosive problem that seemed to fit my style when I watched the videos.
The description mentions a start with the sidepulls and another low sitstart with a sloper. Published grade on bleau.info is 7B(7B+).
Having done both versions, I think they are quite relative to their grade.
Start with the sidepulls.
Friday, March 26, 2021
March 26, 2021 - Not the ninth yet.
Fontainebleau - Buthiers Canard - Taisez-Vous et Mangez, Vermines! (assis) 7B
Low sitstart with sloper. The most logique one.
Fontainebleau - Buthiers Canard - Taisez-Vous et Mangez, Vermines! (assis bas) 7B+
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