Saturday, February 29, 2020

February 29, 2020 - Blue star.

Last week I crossed paths with Tony (Fouchereau) and Thierry (Vasseur), and they told me about a new very quick drying boulder they cleaned and opened many problems on in a remote part of Gorge aux Châts Sud.
This morning, everything was wet, and after a few rain showers, I even was almost convinced that there would be no climbing today. Luckily, in the afternoon, the sky cleared up and the sun in combination with a lot of wind made everything dry quickly.
I wanted to be sure though, and headed out to the boulder that Tony and Thierry told me about.

Located at about 350m past the boulder of "Le Ressort Titan", by following the blue path to the South-East and up the neighboring hill, it is hard to miss just on the right and below the blue path. Marked with a blue star, it is indeed a remarkably beautiful piece of rock.
Not yet published on bleau.info, but it's a good thing that Tony publishes his new boulders on his Instagram page, so more information about the boulder and the problems on it can be found here: https://www.instagram.com/bleautony/?hl=en

I warmed up with "L'Etoile Bleu (direct)", which did require a small leap of faith at the end.

Fontainebleau - Gorge aux Châts Sud - L'Etoile Bleu (direct) 7A(6C+)




Sadly enough, part of a hold broke, but "L'Etoile Bleu" is still possible using a different methods. Also involved a small leap of faith.

Fontainebleau - Gorge aux Châts Sud - L'Etoile Bleu 7A




I very much liked the big shoulder move and pinches in "L'Etoile Bleu (gauche direct)", and yet again a small leap of faith.

Fontainebleau - Gorge aux Châts Sud - L'Etoile Bleu (gauche direct) 7A+(7B)




Same thing for "L'Etoile Bleu (gauche)", but with the big hold on the right. Was a quite morpho to the right, but only a tiny leap of faith.

Fontainebleau - Gorge aux Châts Sud - L'Etoile Bleu (gauche) 7A


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