One of them was the hard 7B+ "Atome Crochu" in which I made quite some progress and managed to do all the moves separately.
Unfortunately the conditions were not in favour and I couldn't link it all together.
I gave up on it after tearing a big chunk of skin off my right pinky finger and moved on to "Extorsion de Fond" in the back part of the area.
"Extortion de Fond" basically comes down to two hard moves and a fun dyno to a big jug. From there, the exit moves are a walk in the park.
The hardest part is finding the correct starting position, lift your butt off the ground and grab a small but good pocket left hand.
With the dyno it all adds up to a quite hard 7A+ in my opinion.
Fontainebleau - Canche aux Merciers - Extorsion de Fond 7A+(7B)
I had to do some household and "dad-picks-up-son-from-a-friend" duties, but when I noticed at about 14h30 that it still hadn't rained, I hurried to Rocher du Potala.
I wanted to try the 7C "Du Coq à l'Âne" that I stumbled upon while browsing bleau.info earlier today.
The boulder on which it's opened, is the huge imposing one that features many red circuit routes. "Du Coq à l'Âne" is a sitstart variation on one of them, red number 4.
It was a bit of a struggle, but in the end not very hard. Definitely not hard enough for 7C and gave it 7B on bleau.info. The two previous repeaters, the very strong climbers Maxime Baroud and Thomas Perréal gave it 7A+.
In the meantime, it has been noticed and the problem has been correctly downgraded to 7B, even though I can imagine it being 7A+ with better conditions.
Still quite a nice line with that sitstart on the left!
I wanted to try the 7C "Du Coq à l'Âne" that I stumbled upon while browsing bleau.info earlier today.
The boulder on which it's opened, is the huge imposing one that features many red circuit routes. "Du Coq à l'Âne" is a sitstart variation on one of them, red number 4.
It was a bit of a struggle, but in the end not very hard. Definitely not hard enough for 7C and gave it 7B on bleau.info. The two previous repeaters, the very strong climbers Maxime Baroud and Thomas Perréal gave it 7A+.
In the meantime, it has been noticed and the problem has been correctly downgraded to 7B, even though I can imagine it being 7A+ with better conditions.
Still quite a nice line with that sitstart on the left!
Fontainebleau - Rocher du Potala - Du Coq à l'Âne 7B
I could't come up with a title for this post, but when I translated "Du Coq à l'Âne" into English with Google Translate out of curiosity, it came up with "From one subject to another".
I thought it fitted ...
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