It was announced to be very stormy and rainy, just like all the days before and those to come.
During the night, I was awakened several times by the gushing wind and the rain crashing onto the windows.
I didn't set high hopes for climbing.
When I got out of bed around 8h, the rain had stopped but the wind was still blowing like crazy.
By 9h30, the clouds had been blown away by the wind and the sun came out to shine.
To my pleasant surprise, everything outside started to dry so quickly that I left home around 10h15, being sure to find some dry rock on top of the hill of Coquibus Grandes Vallées where the wind almost has free play.
The boulders high up there were indeed dry and in remarkably good condition and I started my warmup with "Terrain Miné", this time the original start on the left.
I didn't have much trouble withstanding the pain of the sharp crimp left hand and finished it on my third attempt.
Fontainebleau - Coquibus Grandes Vallées - Terrain Miné 7A
Having done everything else up there already, I descended a bit down to the big boulder with for instance "Délit de Sale Nom".
Because of the quite dangerous landing and all the time climbing almost directly above a small boulder, I doubted for a while, but decided to give some tries anyway.
Even though the climbing was very scary, I persisted on and ended up doing some sort of variation on "Délit de Sale Nom", making it substantially harder.
It appears that the original version exits directly, whereas I traversed a bit to the right on the rail and used the sharp vertical crimp with the left hand, forcing you to make some crazy scary, but very nice moves before reaching the top.
For now I will leave it with "Délit de Sale Nom", but I have requested a separate page to be published for this variation, which is at least a hard 7A+ in my opinion.
Well worth the effort!
Because of the quite dangerous landing and all the time climbing almost directly above a small boulder, I doubted for a while, but decided to give some tries anyway.
Even though the climbing was very scary, I persisted on and ended up doing some sort of variation on "Délit de Sale Nom", making it substantially harder.
It appears that the original version exits directly, whereas I traversed a bit to the right on the rail and used the sharp vertical crimp with the left hand, forcing you to make some crazy scary, but very nice moves before reaching the top.
For now I will leave it with "Délit de Sale Nom", but I have requested a separate page to be published for this variation, which is at least a hard 7A+ in my opinion.
Well worth the effort!
Fontainebleau - Coquibus Grandes Vallées - Délit de Sale Nom 7A
The forecasted rain was nowhere around and the weather remained beautiful.
Some boulders were a bit condensed, but those that could be reached by the wind were perfectly dry.
I had to embrace the unexpected occasion, but needed a small break after spending a lot of energy in my version of "Délit de Sale Nom". The break came in the form of moving to the 95.2 area.
When I drove passed Gorge aux Châts, it was of course fully parked so I feared the worst.
I was astonished, however, to see that the parking for 95.2 was nearly empty, and so was the area itself.
I took advantage of it and laid the crashpad under "L'Ange Naïf", so I could try the original direct dyno version, without the foot hook left and the mono.
On my third attempt I already stuck it.
To me, the static version doesn't feel easier, on the contrary.
Some boulders were a bit condensed, but those that could be reached by the wind were perfectly dry.
I had to embrace the unexpected occasion, but needed a small break after spending a lot of energy in my version of "Délit de Sale Nom". The break came in the form of moving to the 95.2 area.
When I drove passed Gorge aux Châts, it was of course fully parked so I feared the worst.
I was astonished, however, to see that the parking for 95.2 was nearly empty, and so was the area itself.
I took advantage of it and laid the crashpad under "L'Ange Naïf", so I could try the original direct dyno version, without the foot hook left and the mono.
On my third attempt I already stuck it.
To me, the static version doesn't feel easier, on the contrary.
Fontainebleau - 95.2 - L'Ange Naïf 7C
I still played around in some other hard problems but had to let them go for today. The energy was gone with the wind.
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