It had cleared up during the night already and there had been a lot of wind, so already in the morning everything outside looked dry.
I had to work from home until noon though, when my colleague and good friend Harco (De Man) took over. Thanks to him again for that!
However, he should thank me too, because I at the same time made it happen first that he didn't have to work all day today, so in the end, I owe him nothing now.
Anyway, it left me with the whole afternoon to profit from this lovely day.
I didn't want to drive far, so I parked at the nearby Croix Saint Jerôme with the intention to try "L'Enfer des Zombies" in Gros Sablons and maybe try something in 95.2 on the way back.
There was a lot of humidity in the air, however, and even though most boulders were dry, they weren't sticky. There was no "collante" as the French say, on the contrary.
I was able to work out all the moves but one of "L'Enfer des Zombies" though, but really need much better conditions to be able to give it some real goes.
On my way back to 95.2, I met Jean-Pierre (Roudneff) who was trying "Y But Profane" lower down the hill.
We had a brief chat and he told me that he saw "Coince et Danse" completely dry and seemingly good condition. Not having done that one before, I decided to go there. I wanted to climb, wished Jean-Pierre a Happy Easter and continued my way.
"Coince et Danse" was indeed completely dry, but the crescent shaped bad sloper didn't stick at all.
Many times, my right hand slipped off it at the crucial moment before I was able to finish it.
Maybe it were the conditions, but this felt like a tough one for the grade. Maybe one of the reasons I had never done it before?
Fontainebleau - 95.2 - Coince et Danse 7A
A bit higher up the hill, the boulder with "Danse avec les Loups" was completely free of climbers, despite the considerable crowd that had gathered in the quick drying area.
I took the chance to try and repeat it for the video.
The first time I did "Danse avec les Loups" was in October 2010 and despite having repeated it a couple times after, I had never been able to capture it on video.
Many can't even get both feet from the ground, but those who like to use bad tiny crimps will make their way through it.
The dyno from that strange position is the hardest, very off balance dynamic move!
Short problem, but very nice!
I took the chance to try and repeat it for the video.
The first time I did "Danse avec les Loups" was in October 2010 and despite having repeated it a couple times after, I had never been able to capture it on video.
Many can't even get both feet from the ground, but those who like to use bad tiny crimps will make their way through it.
The dyno from that strange position is the hardest, very off balance dynamic move!
Short problem, but very nice!
Fontainebleau - 95.2 - Danse avec les Loups 7A+(7B)
It's a pure coincidence that both problems have something to do with dancing.
I don't even like to dance, because I feel stupid when I do. I most likely look like it too!
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