Saturday, December 2, 2017

December 02, 2017 - There goes the stick.

After going to the S'cape outdoor shop in Fontainebleau this morning, I met Bram (Honorez), Pieter and Thierry (Hardy) at the hippodrome bivouac.
Everything was wet there and I proposed to go South to Buthiers, hoping for dryer conditions there.
Bram and his girlfriend Ruuth had some shopping to do and hadn't decided yet where to go after.
Thierry, who just woke up five minutes ago, agreed to join Pieter and I in Buthiers after his breakfast.

The boulders did look better in Buthiers, but to determine a plan, we first scouted around looking for the boulders in best condition.
By the time we had gone around, Thierry had arrived too and after a short warmup, we started off in "Contrôle A" in which we got necked by the last really far move.
The conditions were getting worse after each try, to the point where the holds started to look dark from the moisture and we had to move.

We moved to the nearby "Insistance" which I did last Monday already and repeated on my second attempt today.
Pieter had to go deep, but followed soon.
Thierry seemed to have trouble with his skin today, because he kept on slipping off those bad slopers.
I only had time left for one more problem, and proposed to try "Résilience" in Buthiers Tennis.
It was also unfinished business for Thierry, so he was up to it and following our description of the problem, Pieter was motivated for it too.

I had already spent three sessions in "Résilience", but always got stuck at the last move.
I can see the top slopey edge, it looks so nearby, and yet every time so unreachable.
It relieved me a bit to hear that Thierry had the same problem on that problem.
Actually, each time before I started my session on it, I stood before it having the impression that this doesn't look hard at all. But, oh boy, how I got punished with a lesson in humbleness.
Now was no different. Until I slightly changed my beta on Thierry's advice.

The new beta allowed me to be in a more comfortable position for the last move which still turned out to be the crux move.
Still when you think you have the edge it's possible to swing off when making the wrong move, which resulted in me crashing on my telescopic brush stick, breaking it in the process.
But I managed to finish it a short while later after all.
Pieter fell off the last move and Thierry still had too much trouble with skin and kept on slipping off.
For me, "Résilience" is one of the hardest 7A+'s that I have ever done, and might as well be a good 7B in my opinion.
Still, a very nice one!

Fontainebleau - Buthiers Tennis - Résilience 7A+(7B)


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