I had been trying it off and on over the last two years, each time comfortably making it up to the last move, the dyno. In last few sessions, my hand even reached over the slopey edge, but never managed to stick.
Believe me, I did try the static version with the slopey pinch right hand quite a few times too, but that method wasn't meant for me. I had to jump like most who have done it, or are trying to.
After what has been a very successful week up to now, I realised this morning that it might be a good time to return to the bad boy, the "Sale Gosse" as the French like to call it.
Like most other evenings this week, it had rained, but I was hoping that the conditions of the boulders would also be like most other days this week.
The ground was still really wet though, and this time I did have a look without the crashpad first to see if "Sale Gosse" would be dry, which it was.
Already from my first attempt, I easily climbed up to the dyno, jumped and slapped half of my hand over the slopey edge, but came off.
Nevertheless, the friction felt great and this first attempt was the best first attempt of any previous session I had on it before.
At that moment, I felt more confident than ever that the send would probably be today.
I didn't even feel the so called 'sending stress'. Most climbers will probably know what I mean with that.
Instead, I remained calm and focussed, gave it all I got with each try and most likely a slight bit more when the actual send came, accompanied by a scream of victory.
The bad boy is punished!
Fontainebleau - Roche au Sabots - Sale Gosse 7C
No comments:
Post a Comment