It rained the whole weekend, so we didn't get further than walking, exploring the forest and locating new and old boulders in remote areas, such as Franchard Sablons Ouest.
The weather turned better on Monday, but I had to wait until today to be able to take a few hours off work for climbing.
I went back to Franchard Sablons Ouest where a couple of new boulders have been opened on the top of the hill by Jason (Kester) and his wife Helen (Dudley). They live in Arbonne-la-Forêt, so basically it's in their backyard.
I enjoyed the fifteen minute walk through the forest and the smell of it gave me energy.
My eyes were treated with the beautiful mix of colours that Autumn and the trees can offer. I loved it!
United Colors of Bleau in Autumn.
I started with "Into the Void", which looks (and is) the most interesting.
The conditions weren't in favour, but still I finished it on my second attempt.
It climbed very nice, but felt quite soft for the grade. Maybe more 7A+?
In any case, a really nice problem!
Fontainebleau - Franchard Sablons Ouest - Into the Void 7B
Up next was "Mr Grumpy Pants" just below "Into the Void".
This one I flashed with ease and felt more like a very soft 7A at most, but maybe I was lucky.
This one I flashed with ease and felt more like a very soft 7A at most, but maybe I was lucky.
Fontainebleau - Franchard Sablons Ouest - Mr Grumpy Pants 7A+
From the start of "Into the Void", Jason also opened "Metu Oblivionis" which doesn't exit over the prow, but in the wall with crimps.
This one I also flashed quite easily and couldn't understand how this could be 7A+.
After watching Jason's method, I noticed that he did the first couple of moves of "Into the Void" to the right and came back into the wall on the left afterwards.
Anyway, here's what I call "Metu Oblivionis (direct)", for which I think it will be about 6C+(7A).
This one I also flashed quite easily and couldn't understand how this could be 7A+.
After watching Jason's method, I noticed that he did the first couple of moves of "Into the Void" to the right and came back into the wall on the left afterwards.
Anyway, here's what I call "Metu Oblivionis (direct)", for which I think it will be about 6C+(7A).
Fontainebleau - Franchard Sablons Ouest - Metu Oblivionis (direct) 6C+(7A)
Using Jason's method makes it a slight bit harder, but still didn't feel harder than 7A.
Fontainebleau - Franchard Sablons Ouest - Metu Oblivionis 7A+
Even though the grades might be on the soft side, still some nice new openings by Jason and Helen!
As the more interesting and harder problems required better conditions, I walked on the sector where "Matagot" is.
I was hoping that "Pince-Mi et Pince-Moi" would be in good enough conditions to try.
They turned out to be not too bad, but this took me more attempts than all the previous problems together that I did this afternoon.
As the more interesting and harder problems required better conditions, I walked on the sector where "Matagot" is.
I was hoping that "Pince-Mi et Pince-Moi" would be in good enough conditions to try.
They turned out to be not too bad, but this took me more attempts than all the previous problems together that I did this afternoon.
Fontainebleau - Franchard Sablons Ouest - Pince-Mi et Pince-Moi 7B
There was no time left anymore to still start trying something else, but I felt relieved to have climbed again after a week of not climbing at all.
Those were two hours very well spent!
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