We had agreed to go to Roche qui Tourne.
I knew where it was and I already walked by the area a couple of times when doing a walk, but I had never really seen the boulders themselves, so I was eager to go.
It's a little bit of a hike, but we found the main sector very quickly and scouted around at first to locate the different problems that we might want to try.
Unlike most parts of the Coquibus, in Roche qui Tourne, the boulders are located close to each other, the landings are good and there are problems in all grades.
All that of course with the beautiful surroundings of the Coquibus!
C needed a warmup, while Pieter and I started with "La Chenille" in the back of the area.
It needed some cleaning to make it climbable again, but soon we had figured out the moves.
Linking them all together didn't take me much time, but Pieter had to let it go. He had an off day.
Fontainebleau - Roche qui Tourne - La Chenille 7A
On the other side of the roof is the nice 6C "Dos Cille", that Pieter wanted to try and I could try it's lower start, "Dos Fin".
"Dos Cille" starts underneath the arete with the left hand on an undercling in the roof and the right hand (most logically) on the arete.
Then you kind of mantle up, take a small crimp in the wall, pull up and reach for a high sloper left hand to then go for the edge.
All this has to done very delicately, because it's kind of a balance test piece.
"Dos Fin" starts deeper in the pit to the left, sitting on the ground next to a rock step and both hands in a jug.
From there you traverse to the right on big dusty holds and with some annoying moves close to the ground, you get into the start of "Dos Cille" and finish in that one.
"Dos Cille" starts underneath the arete with the left hand on an undercling in the roof and the right hand (most logically) on the arete.
Then you kind of mantle up, take a small crimp in the wall, pull up and reach for a high sloper left hand to then go for the edge.
All this has to done very delicately, because it's kind of a balance test piece.
"Dos Fin" starts deeper in the pit to the left, sitting on the ground next to a rock step and both hands in a jug.
From there you traverse to the right on big dusty holds and with some annoying moves close to the ground, you get into the start of "Dos Cille" and finish in that one.
Fontainebleau - Roche qui Tourne - Dos Fin 7A
Pieter and C got really close in doing "Dos Cille", but after a while they turned their attention to "Ventre Bleu", a 6C on a nice belly and bad slopers right next to "Dos Cille".
They seemed to have some trouble and I had to admit that it felt very hard when I tried for the first time too.
I was the only one who ended up finishing it, but not without a fight. It gave me more trouble than the other two that I already did.
It could perfectly be a soft 7A in my opinion. Or maybe it was because of the moss on the top.
They seemed to have some trouble and I had to admit that it felt very hard when I tried for the first time too.
I was the only one who ended up finishing it, but not without a fight. It gave me more trouble than the other two that I already did.
It could perfectly be a soft 7A in my opinion. Or maybe it was because of the moss on the top.
Fontainebleau - Roche qui Tourne - Ventre Bleu 6C
The others wanted to take a break, so we moved to "Claquettes" so I could try that while they rested.
It was the first boulder that we saw when walking into the area and I knew that I had to come back today to try it.
It just sits there, waiting to be climbed.
Working out the moves and finishing it didn't even take ten minutes.
It was a short break for C and Pieter, but the climb was beautiful.
It was the first boulder that we saw when walking into the area and I knew that I had to come back today to try it.
It just sits there, waiting to be climbed.
Working out the moves and finishing it didn't even take ten minutes.
It was a short break for C and Pieter, but the climb was beautiful.
Fontainebleau - Roche qui Tourne - Claquettes 7A+
C finished the day with working hard in the very beautiful 6B, "Belle de Jour" and finishing it, well deserved.
Pieter was finally able to finish his newspaper.
Hey Filip, het was de max! Tot gauw nog eens! Let me know if you need some of that cosiness! Groetjes C
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