Sunday, July 23, 2017

July 23, 2017 - Hard to find.

I met Pieter on the parking of Coquibus Longs Vaux this morning, but first we walked to the opposite direction towards Gorge à Véron.
He had a look for it yesterday evening, but he couldn't find the boulders.
I showed Pieter around and he was able to make quick ascents of "Zig-Zag Napalm" and "Coup de Foudre". Good job!

From there we walked all the way to the far end of Coquibus Longs Vaux to have a look at the boulders there, with "Bombe du Genre pas Mal" in particular.
The boulders at that far end are spread out below the ridge on the other side of the hill, but they are so hard to see that you could stand on them without knowing it.

"Bombe du Genre pas Mal" is really well hidden, but luckily we didn't have to look longer than half an hour.
It was originally given 7B, but on bleau.info we saw that it was 7A(7A+).
No matter what the grade was, the line looked really nice, quite exposed, but nothing what two crashpads and the thought of having a good spotter in the back, couldn't solve.

We worked out the moves in the roof a bit and all in all I made it on my second attempt from the start.
I hadn't worked out the last part though, so I had to improvise and desperately use two sharp tiny crimps to hang on for dear life and move on.

Fontainebleau - Coquibus Longs Vaux - Bombe du Genre pas Mal 7A(7A+)




Pieter didn't feel like wrecking his fingers so he decided to let it go.

On the way back we had some good tries in the first moves of "La Nuit" and "Tonnerre de Brest", but were chased away by the rain.
It was time to go home anyway and Pieter still had a long drive ahead.

All the boulders are so well hidden in Coquibus Longs Vaux, that if someone would ask me where I was today, I would answer: "Hard to find".

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