I wanted to try "Le Lepreux (direct assis)", but first I needed a quick warmup.
The dyno, "Bangster", a little bit hidden away high behind "Figure de Proue", seemed like a good option.
It was a sketchy climb to reach the problem, especially packed with a big Mondo pad, but it didn't start raining yet, and I was glad I could start.
"Bangster" is a pure straight forward one move dyno, but the position from which you have to jump doesn't make it an easy one. It requires quite a bizarre move to start the push for the jump.
This felt like one of the nicer dyno's in that grade that I have done in the forest, but definitely not the easiest!
Fontainebleau - Éléphant - Bangster 7A
By the time I arrived at the boulder of "Le Lépreux", it had started to drizzle.
I tried to wait it out, but when the drizzle turned into real rain after 15 minutes, I left.
Hours later it cleared up again and late in the afternoon I hoped to find some dry boulders in Roche aux Oiseaux.
Some options that I had in mind were climbable, but "Le Perroquet Vert" was in surprisingly good condition.
I had tried "Le Perroquet Vert" a couple of times before, but always found it too hard. I knew that the method I used was wrong, but I never could figure out something else.
Today I started with the same wrong method, hoping to be able to find the solution when analysing what exactly was going wrong.
It seemed to have helped because after about an hour I had found my method. Someone taller will probably do it differently.
Despite that it only received an average of 2.3 stars by the six registered repeaters, I had quite some fun in "Le Perroquet Vert". Frustration too, but mostly fun.
Short problem, but very powerful moves. Nicer than it looks.
I tried to wait it out, but when the drizzle turned into real rain after 15 minutes, I left.
Hours later it cleared up again and late in the afternoon I hoped to find some dry boulders in Roche aux Oiseaux.
Some options that I had in mind were climbable, but "Le Perroquet Vert" was in surprisingly good condition.
I had tried "Le Perroquet Vert" a couple of times before, but always found it too hard. I knew that the method I used was wrong, but I never could figure out something else.
Today I started with the same wrong method, hoping to be able to find the solution when analysing what exactly was going wrong.
It seemed to have helped because after about an hour I had found my method. Someone taller will probably do it differently.
Despite that it only received an average of 2.3 stars by the six registered repeaters, I had quite some fun in "Le Perroquet Vert". Frustration too, but mostly fun.
Short problem, but very powerful moves. Nicer than it looks.
Fontainebleau - Roche aux Oiseaux - Le Perroquet Vert 7B+
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