In the morning, Pieter wrote me that he and Alberto were on their way and we agreed to meet at J.A. Martin. Stef (Jacobs) still had "Sur le Fil (rallongé)" as a long term project.
Pieter, Alberto, Stef with his girlfriend and her kid, two friends from Stef, Bram (Honorez) and his girlfriend Ruuth. We all ended up climbing on the boulder with "Sur le Fil".
I repeated "Sur le Fil (rallongé)" quite quickly and set off with Bram to Roche aux Oiseaux.
He wanted to try "Le Hérisson" again and even though I didn't have much time left, I decided to join him. "Le Hérisson" is after all a beautiful problem and I didn't mind trying to repeat it.
I showed Bram how it was done by repeating after a handful of tries, but he fell off the last move.
This morning there was a dense fog again and climbing wasn't possible.
Pieter was the first one who texted me around noon, saying he and Alberto were headed for Rocher Saint-Germain and I decided to join them there.
I warmed up in the famous and beautiful slab "Mise au Poing" which I was finally able to repeat for the video.
It was back in 2009 that I did this magnificent 5m high slab, and even though I tried to repeat a couple of times for the video, I was never able to do it again until today, and it only took me three tries this time.
Fontainebleau - Rocher Saint-Germain Est - Mise au Poing 7A(6C)
Pieter gave "Mise au Poing" a lot of tries, got the hang of it, but didn't have enough mental strength to carry on to the top.
Alberto, on the contrary, did, and found his method to make it all the way up.
It was exciting and a real pleasure and joy to see him do the last tricky moves.
In the meantime, Bram called to say they went to Cuvier Sorcières, and mentioned that he just finished off "Le Hérisson".
Well done my friends!
The cars were parked at the Carrefour de Belle Croix on the top of the hill but we too the blue path so we could still try some nice problems that we passed on our way.
I was still able to harvest two quite nice problems.
The first one was "Brève Éjection", a variation of the dyno "Éjection Précoce" that I did a couple of weeks ago.
I didn't try that variation then, so as we passed it anyway, gave it some tries while Alberto was behaving like a hooligan.
It was difficult to aim for the right spot to dyno to, but thanks to Pieter's directions, it suddenly was easy.
Still a nice dyno though.
Alberto, on the contrary, did, and found his method to make it all the way up.
It was exciting and a real pleasure and joy to see him do the last tricky moves.
In the meantime, Bram called to say they went to Cuvier Sorcières, and mentioned that he just finished off "Le Hérisson".
Well done my friends!
The cars were parked at the Carrefour de Belle Croix on the top of the hill but we too the blue path so we could still try some nice problems that we passed on our way.
I was still able to harvest two quite nice problems.
The first one was "Brève Éjection", a variation of the dyno "Éjection Précoce" that I did a couple of weeks ago.
I didn't try that variation then, so as we passed it anyway, gave it some tries while Alberto was behaving like a hooligan.
It was difficult to aim for the right spot to dyno to, but thanks to Pieter's directions, it suddenly was easy.
Still a nice dyno though.
Fontainebleau - Rocher Saint-Germain - Brève Éjection 7A
The last one was "Pickpocket".
If I remember correctly, it was opened as a 7A but despite many tries, I was never able to get to the top.
It came as a big surprise to see that it got downgraded to 6C+(6C) by now.
I ended up doing two versions but only have one on video.
The first version I started with both hand on the horizontal crimp, used a right heel hook and mantled up from there. That felt like 6B at most.
The version as can be seen on the video is according to me the most logic version, but still felt like a hard 7A to me.
If I remember correctly, it was opened as a 7A but despite many tries, I was never able to get to the top.
It came as a big surprise to see that it got downgraded to 6C+(6C) by now.
I ended up doing two versions but only have one on video.
The first version I started with both hand on the horizontal crimp, used a right heel hook and mantled up from there. That felt like 6B at most.
The version as can be seen on the video is according to me the most logic version, but still felt like a hard 7A to me.
Fontainebleau - Rocher Saint-Germain - Pickpocket 6C+(6C)
It was a beautiful day today with excellent weather, but just like any other day, it had to come to an end.
No comments:
Post a Comment