Climbing felt like ages ago, so when I got home from a work trip to Germany, I was happily surprised with nice dry weather.
It was already late in the afternoon, and after a six and half hour drive, I needed a break and decided to spend the last hour of sunlight in the nearby Gorge aux Châts.
To use the most of my available time, I stayed at the bottom of the hill and started with a short warmup in "L'Ami Sanglier (assis)", a 6C which is often confused with the 7A, "L'Ami Sanglier (du fond)", that starts far right under the roof, at the start of "Le Pare-Dessus".
Anyway, I had tried "L'Ami Sanglier (assis)" already a couple of times, but never found my way coming out of the roof.
I have no idea what I did differently now, but it all went like a charm.
Some very nice moves in a very underestimated 6C. For me this felt hard for the grade.
Fontainebleau - Gorge aux Châts - L'Ami Sanglier (assis) 6C
I had a look at the traverse under the roof that links up and makes the 7A, but the moves that I could imagine didn't seem very nice and I really didn't feel like twisting and turning under that roof just for chasing a grade.
Next problem that came into my mind was "Le Mur du Feu" at barely 20m from there.
It lies right next to one of the paths, in plain sight, but yet, with only one registered repeater (Ivan Moreels in 2007), tends to be invisible, forgotten or not deemed worthy enough to try.
I must admit that I already had a brief look at it a couple of times, but I never saw a way to start and didn't give much attention anymore.
This time I decided to spend some time in it.
The description says that you have to start with crimps and go for a high crimp left hand.
After finally figuring out how to start and move towards the high crimp, it started to become a nice challenge, and even though the high crimp was razor sharp, I enjoyed trying it more and more.
I didn't even want to let it go anymore but there wasn't much time left.
Too bad that "Le Mur du Feu" doesn't get the attention it deserves, even though I do think that it will get more repeaters soon now that a video of it is published.
This one also felt quite hard for the grade, but I really recommend it.
A little gem hidden in plain sight.
Next problem that came into my mind was "Le Mur du Feu" at barely 20m from there.
It lies right next to one of the paths, in plain sight, but yet, with only one registered repeater (Ivan Moreels in 2007), tends to be invisible, forgotten or not deemed worthy enough to try.
I must admit that I already had a brief look at it a couple of times, but I never saw a way to start and didn't give much attention anymore.
This time I decided to spend some time in it.
The description says that you have to start with crimps and go for a high crimp left hand.
After finally figuring out how to start and move towards the high crimp, it started to become a nice challenge, and even though the high crimp was razor sharp, I enjoyed trying it more and more.
I didn't even want to let it go anymore but there wasn't much time left.
Too bad that "Le Mur du Feu" doesn't get the attention it deserves, even though I do think that it will get more repeaters soon now that a video of it is published.
This one also felt quite hard for the grade, but I really recommend it.
A little gem hidden in plain sight.
Fontainebleau - Gorge aux Châts - Le Mur du Feu 7A
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