A good night sleep in my own bed would do me good and I had taken the next day off.
There was a blue sky this morning but I had troubles getting out of bed. I still felt miserable and had heavy cramps.
I took my time trying to eat something light and stopped at the pharmacy on my way to Canche aux Merciers.
The smell of the forest, the oxygen, the sun on my face and my crashpad on my back. It made me feel better instantly but I felt weak and walked slowly.
It didn't come as a surprise to find the boulders wet.
The big difference in air temperature between last night and now combined with cold rock made the dawn condense and keep everything wet.
There were some southernly faced problems that were in the sun and I was lucky to find a nameless 7A(7A+) dry.
It's one that I tried several times long ago, but never got far.
Finding the method didn't take me long this time but as I felt weak, I had to go deep and lost a lot of energy.
Fontainebleau - Canche aux Merciers - Nameless 7A(7A+)
As I couldn't find anything else of my interest dry, I decided to drive to 95.2 and try my chances there. I still had some problems to back to in that area.
"Le Yaniro" was wet, but "Pince-Toi" was dryer than last time I tried it.
It's a hard 7A+ that I already tried quite a few times but the method I saw in videos just didn't seem to work for me.
Today it was no different but I was able to do it using a different method with both hands on the arete as the convention, but with a fa toehook on the right.
It still felt hard, but it worked for me.
"Le Yaniro" was wet, but "Pince-Toi" was dryer than last time I tried it.
It's a hard 7A+ that I already tried quite a few times but the method I saw in videos just didn't seem to work for me.
Today it was no different but I was able to do it using a different method with both hands on the arete as the convention, but with a fa toehook on the right.
It still felt hard, but it worked for me.
Fontainebleau - 95.2 - Pince-Toi 7A+
I then moved to "Captain Hook" which was dry but the slopers started to get dark and humid after a few tries already.
I figured out the whole sequence though and will come back for it when the conditions are better.
On my way back to the car I stopped at the "Rudeboy" boulder where I knew that "Zyno" would be dry as it's facing South.
By the time I got there, I felt exhausted.
The cramps were gone and I didn't feel miserable anymore, but my body had weakened.
I took a small break and wasn't sure if I would still have enough explosive power to make the dyno.
Some deep oxygen rich breaths helped and soon after I gave it a first try. I got nowhere, but I felt confident that after a few tries it would get better and better.
It still took me a while with small breaks every two or three tries, but then suddenly I had it. It felt great, I felt great. Tired, but great!
I figured out the whole sequence though and will come back for it when the conditions are better.
On my way back to the car I stopped at the "Rudeboy" boulder where I knew that "Zyno" would be dry as it's facing South.
By the time I got there, I felt exhausted.
The cramps were gone and I didn't feel miserable anymore, but my body had weakened.
I took a small break and wasn't sure if I would still have enough explosive power to make the dyno.
Some deep oxygen rich breaths helped and soon after I gave it a first try. I got nowhere, but I felt confident that after a few tries it would get better and better.
It still took me a while with small breaks every two or three tries, but then suddenly I had it. It felt great, I felt great. Tired, but great!
Fontainebleau - 95.2 - Zyno 7A+(7B)
Still now, hours later, I'm tired but the cramps haven't returned and I don't feel miserable anymore.
It truly is a healing forest.
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