They predicted it to be a grey and cloudy day, but the sun broke through the morning fog and soon the sky was blue and it started to warm up.
I took Jean-Pierre's word for it and headed to Apremont for a day of easy climbing.
My body felt weak at first, but the sun gave me energy. It felt warm.
The forest was wet, but the boulders out in the open in the chaos of Apremont were all dry.
I walked straight to the small sector of "Onde de Choc" where there is always something left to do, "Fosse Ailleurs" for example.
It's a little bit the "biscuit" version of "La Fosse", one that still remains on my to-do list.
Still didn't feel easy though, but it was the first problem of the day and my skin still needed to warm up.
Fontainebleau - Apremont - Fosse Ailleurs 7A
It's a nice spot there, so I stayed for a while, played around and did a combination of "Tango Triste (assis)" and "Rêve de Pierre".
I named it "Rêve de Tango" and the grade will be about 7A as I found it slightly harder than "Tango Triste (assis)".
Sitstart and climb as for "Tango Triste (assis)", take the crack of "Rêve de Pierre" on the right and exit on slopers above.
It was fun to do and it has a nice shouldermove.
I named it "Rêve de Tango" and the grade will be about 7A as I found it slightly harder than "Tango Triste (assis)".
Sitstart and climb as for "Tango Triste (assis)", take the crack of "Rêve de Pierre" on the right and exit on slopers above.
It was fun to do and it has a nice shouldermove.
Fontainebleau - Apremont - Rêve de Tango 7A
One on my wanted list for today was "Fil à Tordre", which I tried several sessions already, but never was able to do the last dynamic move to the top.
It didn't feel much different when I started trying. The last move feels possible, but it's just such a difficult one to make coming from the position you're in.
My persistence payed off and finally I can add this nice problem to my done list.
It didn't feel much different when I started trying. The last move feels possible, but it's just such a difficult one to make coming from the position you're in.
My persistence payed off and finally I can add this nice problem to my done list.
Fontainebleau - Apremont - Fil à Tordre 7A+
It was really warm by now so I walked to "Happy Boulder" where it was cooler, but unfortunately also less dry.
I made my way into the slab of it, but didn't dare and wasn't able to finish it.
Time to find the sun again.
Not far from there, the sun was shining directly on "Faux Contact" which was in perfect condition.
I never tried, but I saw a video of it in the morning so I knew what to do and was able to flash it.
Such cool campus moves, exceptional for Bleau. Really nice problem!
I made my way into the slab of it, but didn't dare and wasn't able to finish it.
Time to find the sun again.
Not far from there, the sun was shining directly on "Faux Contact" which was in perfect condition.
I never tried, but I saw a video of it in the morning so I knew what to do and was able to flash it.
Such cool campus moves, exceptional for Bleau. Really nice problem!
Fontainebleau - Apremont - Faux Contact 7A+(7B)
I didn't have any plan anymore, so I decided to climb something on my way back to the car, packed up and started walking.
I must have been about 100m away when I noticed in the topo that there was another 7A on the boulder of "Faux Contact" and I chose to walk back as I knew that this was dry. It was going to be my last climb for the day so I didn't take any risks.
I'm not completely sure that my method was correct but this felt really hard for the grade.
My body was cooled down and I felt tired so that that most probably played a role, but still.
It's a bit annoying having to climb over the small boulder, but in the end it was a really nice problem that I enjoyed to climb.
Tough one!
I must have been about 100m away when I noticed in the topo that there was another 7A on the boulder of "Faux Contact" and I chose to walk back as I knew that this was dry. It was going to be my last climb for the day so I didn't take any risks.
I'm not completely sure that my method was correct but this felt really hard for the grade.
My body was cooled down and I felt tired so that that most probably played a role, but still.
It's a bit annoying having to climb over the small boulder, but in the end it was a really nice problem that I enjoyed to climb.
Tough one!
Fontainebleau - Apremont - Ablation du Téton 7A
It felt really warm today in the sun and between the boulders, and it was hard to believe that in only four days the Winter starts. Or does it ?
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