Wednesday, January 6, 2016

January 06, 2015 - On a wire.

After 2 and a half days of rain and no climbing, I was starting to get fed up with "resting".
When the rain stopped this afternoon, I started thinking about what would be close to the parking and already dry enough to climb.
The days are slowly starting to get longer and I knew that I would have about 15 minutes of enough daylight left after work.
There are lots of boulders close to lots of parkings, but thinking of one that would be dry enough about 2 hours after 2 and a half days of rain immediately limits the options.

My thoughts took me to J.A. Martin, where I would surely find "Sur le Fil" dry. It's not the most interesting boulder (short traverse), but I knew it has some nice slopers and a cool swing on it.
I had done it before in 2012 and knew it would be done quickly. Just enough time for a quick video repeat.

Apparently, what I didn't know before, this has 2 possible starts. The sitstart (as on the video) is the 6C version (I totally agree with the grade) while the 7A version starts standing, but more to the left at the angle of 6 Orange. That means you would have to traverse the slab and do a first dynamic move to reach the jug just above the 6C sitstart. Cool that I didn't know that before, so now I have a reason to go back again and do the 7A version too.

Fontainebleau - J.A. Martin - Sur le Fil 6C(7A)


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