July 22, 2023 - Not my crack.

Pieter and I wanted to do something different and decided to go try "Pure Line" in Rocher du Télégraphe. What attracted us the most about this seven meters long crack, was the fact that it would definitely be less hot in the shady cave where the crack runs through from start to finish. "Pure Line" being a crack that can only be climbed using proper hand jams, makes it a very atypical for Bleau, an otherwise almost non existent style of climbing in the wider region. Unlike Pieter, I had never tried such style of climbing and he had to show me how to tape the hands for protection. 
I have to be honest and admit that I totally underestimated this style of climbing. It was way harder than I had anticipated and we only managed to do half moves, in other words, we could lift our asses from the ground in some places, let go of one hand, but not even lock it back in the crack. Even after an hour of trying, there was barely any progress. I must say that I have gained huge respect for those that are to climb in this way. Big up to the few who can climb this whole seven meters long crack, I am definitely not one of them.

Trying one of the last moves of "Pure Line", pictured by Pieter.

After a while, we both agreed that this wasn't our thing and walked back along the blue path on the top of the hill, knowing that we would pass by the dangerously exposed boulder of "Rascar Capac". 
Due to the scary aspect of the uncertain topout and the scare factor, we had a little doubt about trying "Rascar Capac", but as we were there now, I decided to give it a go and was able to flash it with relative ease. Pieter didn't feel certain enough about the last and most scary move, so gave it a pass. I still tried the harder "Bachibouzouk", and even though I'm sure that I can do it easily, I also chickened out on that one. Maybe another time, with better skin and a fresher body, and maybe a second spotter.

Fontainebleau - Rocher du Télégraphe - Rascar Capac 7A

July 21, 2023 - Rest day... Right!?

I was supposed to take rest day from climbing today, to allow my skin to recover, but that thought only lasted until yesterday evening, when Pieter let me know that he would be today. He proposed to go to Gorges du Houx to climb in the shade of the cave where "Gargantoit" is located, coincidently the exact same idea that I had in mind after I realized that I would be climbing today anyway. Our plans were almost canceled due to rain during the night and this morning, but it started drying quickly as soon as the sky cleared up. When we arrived at the cave, we were delighted to notice that "Gargantoit" was completely dry, as if it hadn't rained at all.
I had already done the regular standing start of "Gargantoit" in November 2016, but I wanted to try one of the sitstarts so it was obvious to try the standing start again as a warmup and to mentally prepare. It only took me three attempts to top it out again. As I had it already on video, I didn't film it, but added the one from back in 2016 below. Apparently it was freezing cold that day, which is a huge contrast with today.

Fontainebleau - Gorges du Houx - Gargantoit 7A+(7A) (2016)

Being more attracted by the moves of the left sitstart of "Gargantoit", I worked out the moves quite fast and much sooner than expected, if at all, I worked my way all the way to the top. A magnificent problem that gets my five stars without a doubt.
Almost immediately after, Pieter was able to finish the standing start as well.

Fontainebleau - Gorges du Houx - Gargantoit (assis gauche) 7B+

Being there now and with still some juice left in me, we worked the start of the regular sitstart using the compression method. I was quite surprised to get back into the standing start quickly and decided to give it all I got for another top. Maybe a bit too soon, because I was completely pumped for the final move and couldn't hold it anymore. After a short break, I was able to take it down. Pieter made it into the standing start, but lacked the power and energy to go to the end.
Both sitstarts totally fit my style. Good effort for a supposed rest day.

Fontainebleau - Gorges du Houx - Gargantoit (assis) 7B+

July 20, 2023 - Dissidence.

Even though I had tried "Dissidence" in Buthiers Piscine a couple of times already, I never could give if the full attention and effort that it required due to humid holds under the roof, making it pointless to continue. But when Olaf told me that he had done it a few days ago and that the whole problem was perfectly dry, I decided to to head out there this morning and give it all I got.
It was almost 10 o'clock when I arrived at the boulder this morning and the boulder was completely in the shade, which was a big advantage. Knowing the first part of the problem, I briefly worked out the second, hardest part and sooner than I expected, did all the moves, except for the actual topout. It didn't look like the latter should cause too much trouble, so I decided to give it some attempts from the start. 
The flapper that I pulled in my finger last week wasn't completely healed and when it opened up again and started bleeding after my second attempt, I was on the verge of giving up and coming back for it another day. Luckily, I took the decision to tape it up again and give it a few more go's. Two attempts later, I found myself on top of the boulder. It was barely half an hour after I had arrived.
A very nice problem that can easily be done in the Summer.

Fontainebleau - Buthiers Piscine - Dissidence 7B+

July 19, 2023 - Bad memory.

I had a vague memory about the "Bicarbuartion" roof in Gorges du Hous Oiseau de Proie, being in the shade, but while walking towards it, I soon realized that it was a false memory somehow. As I hadn't planned on trying "Bicarburation" itself, but rather some of the shorter of the many lines, I didn't really bother too much about it being partly in the sun. I expected to be alone at the boulder, but it was a pleasant surprise that Olaf, a German friend that I met several years ago and occasionally bumped in to, was there too. He was working out separate parts of the very long "Bicarburation" and I was glad to join him for a climb in the roof, even though I had my mind set on other problems, starting with "Le Bi Haut". 
It took a while before I figured out how to get through the roof without swinging out, but once I did, the ascent followed fast. It was only when I looked on bleau.info for something else in the roof, that I discovered that I apparently already had done "Le Bi Haut" seven years ago, back in 2016, and even already a video of it. As it was in October of that year, it became clear why I remembered the roof being more in the shade. 

Fontainebleau - Gorges du Houx Oiseau de Proie - Le Bi Haut 7B (repeat)

I apparently hadn't done "Le Bi Yo" yet, which has the same start, but with an exit in "Bicarbuartion", more to the left. It seemed like an obvious choice and after I quickly tried the last part, I sent "Le Bi Yo" immediately after it without it giving me any trouble or too much effort. I will go back to the roof soon to try some of the other harder and longer problems.

Fontainebleau - Gorges du Houx Oiseau de Proie - Le Bi Yo 7B

July 14, 2023 - Consolation prize.

Bastille Day in France especially means public holiday, and it promised to be a hot one. I left early to Mont Simonet, but shortly after I started climbing, my skin wasn't really cooperative and I had to stop trying anything too hard. To make it even worse, I finally found a way to initiate the dynamic move of "Coïncident" but when I nearly stuck the sharp hold, I swung out and pulled a bad flapper on my right middle finger. I taped it up, but retrying "Coïncident" was out of the question. On the verge of despair, I strolled around until I found myself in front of "Aréopage", felt that the starting hold was okay for the flapper, and decided to give the direct version a try. 
I only had to try the first move twice to get the coordination and on my third attempt, stuck it and topped out. It felt like a consolation prize as I had hoped to get away with more, but at least it was better than nothing.
The finger will need some time to heal, so I guess it's a good coincidence that I planned to visit family in Belgium this weekend.

Fontainebleau - Mont Simonet - L'Aréopage (direct) 7B

July 09, 2023 - Thunderstruck.

The intent of going to Le Calvaire and try some problems on the boulder of "Sombre", was to ensure climbing in the shade, but it turned out to have another very beneficial purpose. The thunderstorm that I only expected to arrive late this afternoon, was way early and around the time that I arrived at the boulder, the distant rumbling in the sky had come very close and the first rain drops had started to fall. Right after I put on my climbing shoes, the mild dripping turned into heavy rain and thunder and lightning had turned into a magnificent show of nature.
I was lucky to stay dry in that small cave-like spot and was able to climb, but unfortunately not very long. When I managed to stick the crux move of "Morceau de Sable", the topout had become soaking wet. Luckily the last part climbs a quite easy blue on jugs, so didn't really have to worry about it. By then also, which was less fortunate, the rain on top of the boulder had accumulated enough for it start dripping through the roof and I had to move my stuff to better shelter. Climbing anything else had become pointless, so I waited for a window to head back to the car. 

Fontainebleau - Le Calvaire - Morceau de Sable 7A

July 08, 2023 - Way too hot.

The temperature didn't drop below 22°C last night and when I left for climbing this morning, it already felt hot. My choice to try a few boulders on the North ridge of Cuvier Rempart turned out to be a bad one, so while looking for some shade, I ended up in Cuvier Nord where I was only able to do "Vibranium (placé)", an overhang that I had never seen completely dry during my many visits to the area a few years go. It was almost unfortunate that I flashed it, because after it, I was on the lookout for some doable problems in this heat. Finally, the heat took the upper hand and was tempted to go back home and dive our pool, which I did. 

Fontainebleau - Cuvier Nord - Vibranium (placé) 7A