The rest of the time, I spent my session trying the nearby "Coïncident", which features only two moves, but very hard ones, for me. Starting with a bad high undercling it immediately puts the body under full tension, making getting the second off the ground the first hard move. From there, the second hard move is letting go of the right hand and making a big dynamic move to a good but sharp hold high up. Last time I tried this, I did make it to the sharp hold, but pulled a big flapper on it, catching the swing, forcing me to stop. This time I couldn't remember how I had positioned my body good enough for the dynamic move and didn't even make it to the sharp hold. Definitely not a priority project, but it hasn't seen the last of me yet.
Fontainebleau - Mont Simonet - Duke & Kitty 7B
This morning, I went to Rocher du Mont Morillon with the intention to spend some time on the beautiful "Karma Gai". I had tried it two or three times, spread over the years, but only briefly as I could barely move in it. I was never even able to hold the high shallow sidepull left hand, let alone fixate it enough to reposition the feet. Therefor, I didn't have any expectations at all when I was walking towards the boulder. Arriving at the boulder, my first thought was that I would probably leave the boulder again empty handed, without any progress and probably thinking that I would not come back for it. This boulder was truly one of my black sheep.
After a short warmup, I still wasn't able to fixate the sidepull, but it somehow felt less desperate. Giving it another chance, I worked on the other moves, but it didn't go quite well at first. My body still had to wake up. Not wanting to go somewhere else, I decided to push on, taking short breaks now and then, until I ended up having done all the separate moves, even the one with the sidepull. The game was on and I decided to give it some real send attempts.
The first one was promising. I was surprised that I made it up to the right hand sloper, but just barely, and I fell off on the next move, to the sloper left hand. It was only then that I really believed that I could do it and decided to make it a priority project if I wouldn't finish it today.
The next few attempts went a bit downhill at first, slipping off the left sidepull a few times. After a few bad attempts, I did make it again to the right hand sloper, but it was so sketchy that I knew beforehand that I would fall off the next move again, which I did.
After another longer break, it suddenly all flowed and already after only two moves, it felt like it good be the send go, which it ended up being, even though just barely at the end. I was very excited and pleased with having taken down "Karma Gai", one of my black sheep.
Definitely worth the full five stars!
After a short warmup, I still wasn't able to fixate the sidepull, but it somehow felt less desperate. Giving it another chance, I worked on the other moves, but it didn't go quite well at first. My body still had to wake up. Not wanting to go somewhere else, I decided to push on, taking short breaks now and then, until I ended up having done all the separate moves, even the one with the sidepull. The game was on and I decided to give it some real send attempts.
The first one was promising. I was surprised that I made it up to the right hand sloper, but just barely, and I fell off on the next move, to the sloper left hand. It was only then that I really believed that I could do it and decided to make it a priority project if I wouldn't finish it today.
The next few attempts went a bit downhill at first, slipping off the left sidepull a few times. After a few bad attempts, I did make it again to the right hand sloper, but it was so sketchy that I knew beforehand that I would fall off the next move again, which I did.
After another longer break, it suddenly all flowed and already after only two moves, it felt like it good be the send go, which it ended up being, even though just barely at the end. I was very excited and pleased with having taken down "Karma Gai", one of my black sheep.
Definitely worth the full five stars!
Fontainebleau - Rocher du Mont Morillon - Karma Gai 7B+
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