Saturday, May 23, 2026

May 23, 2026 - End of the break.

Thanks to Mikael Uponen, I had some inspiration for what to try this morning. He sent me a message earlier this week to notify me about a new problem that he opened on the "Aire de Repos" boulder in Bois des Hauts de Milly. It's a small isolated roof that I cleaned around the Covid period and had opened a few obvious lines on it, following the edge of the roof. Somehow, it didn't occur to me to try going through the roof directly, or perhaps I didn't see it as possible. I'm glad Mikael did and that he sent me a message about it as it not (yet) published on bleau.info.
The convention is to climb directly through the roof without using either side of it. It sounds like it's an eliminate problem, but it turns out that it doesn't feel that way at all. You're just climbing a very logical line using the crimps under the roof and top out at the end of it. I'm also pleased that he named it in the same line as the other problems.
I was there before it was too warm this morning, but that wouldn't be for long. Luckily, a few trees offer a very welcoming shade most of the time. At first, I had a hard time figuring out what to do. The crimps are obviously there, but getting into a good position to use them with the required force seemed to be impossible at first and I messaged Mikael, asking for the video that he made but hadn't sent me yet. By the time he answered, I had been able to find a way, which turned out to be the same as he was doing in his video, at least for the first part. I had found a possible method for the second part, but it felt extremely hard. Trying his method on his video deemed to be just a bit too morpho for my short legs, so I switched back to my method. 
After some minor tweaks it finally started to feel possible and I was able to finish it a few attempts later. In time before it became too hot.
A very nice addition from Mikael on this cool little roof.

Fontainebleau - Bois des Hauts de Milly - Fin de Repos 7B+

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