Last weekend, when I was in Apremont Belvédère, I wanted to walk over to Apremont Mare aux Biches to try "Désertec", but for some reason, I didn't get to it. I had wanted to try "Désertec" a few times, but either the starting hold was wet, or the very bad sloper near the top was humid and didn't have enough friction to even consider trying it in that condition. After a few sunny days, I had planned to go there today, and funny enough, Bart (Van Raaij) happened to have opened a variation on the boulder of "Un Ch'ti Délire", which I did a little over a year ago. "Ch'timi" shares the same start and end, but instead of going left through the roof, continue on the prow and go left with the top slopers. I figured it was ideal to be able to try both.
The boulders were still cold when I arrived quite early in the morning, but the sun was already warming up the air a lot. It felt quite warm and I enjoyed the feeling of the warming sun. The slopers of "Désertec" was dry and felt good, just as the starting hold. I could finally try this short problem. I had watched a video of Manuel (Marquès) yesterday and still remembered what he did for the top. I managed to that topout separately on my first try and then did the whole problem on basically my first attempt. That could count as a warmup.
Fontainebleau - Apremont Mare aux Biches - Désertec 7B+
The spot of the boulder with "Ch'timi", which I was going to try next, was nicely in the sun and is usually a quiet spot, but the quietness got interrupted by a class of shouting kids. Their teacher decided that the small valley was a perfect for a break with the kids and they kept on shouting while playing hide and seek at not even 100m from where I was. So long for the quietness.
I tried to not be bothered by it and tried the few moves around the small birch tree separately so I would know how to move around the tree. Surprisingly, it went immediately and after setting up the camera, I sent "Ch'timi" on my first attempt from the start. Barely twenty minutes after arriving in the area, I had already done both of the problems that I wanted to try.
I tried to not be bothered by it and tried the few moves around the small birch tree separately so I would know how to move around the tree. Surprisingly, it went immediately and after setting up the camera, I sent "Ch'timi" on my first attempt from the start. Barely twenty minutes after arriving in the area, I had already done both of the problems that I wanted to try.
Fontainebleau - Apremont Mare aux Biches - Ch'timi 7B+(7C)
I still wanted to climb some more, and I made a quick decision to stop by the Drei Zinnen area on my way home, with the intention to try the relatively new "Digitalement Fastidieux". On this one however, I didn't feel the friction on the key sloper, so I stopped trying after not even five minutes and moved to boulder of "Jubile". I had done the standing start back in 2018, but didn't manage to do the sitstart. Somehow, I had never gone back to try the sitstart again. After a few fruitless attempts, I could understand why. The moves didn't fit me very well. Determined to not give up, I stuck with it and sent it some time later.
Fontainebleau - Drei Zinnen - Jubile (assis) 7A+
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