The sun had just broken through a light fog and had started warming the air to a very comfortable temperature by the time I arrived at the boulder. Just the way I like it.
Before starting with trying the moves, I inspected the problem from close by and from a distance, imagining how it would do the moves. Just like the other times, I had to smile when realizing the shape of the boulder. It didn't steal the name that has been given to it, "Le Phalloïde". Once you see it, you can't 'un-see' that it looks like a giant penis, ready to go.
I was ready to go as well and immediately noticed that I felt much more comfortable than a few years ago, trying the first move. The second move took a bit more time, but fairly quickly I got the hang of it. I practiced the upper part as well, to avoid any surprises. I turned on the camera, and immediately executed the moves almost perfectly and climbed on to the high top. A great climb!
Fontainebleau - Rocher Cailleau - L'Aéro Pris à Pic (assis) 7B
Having done it much quicker than I expected, I still stopped at the "Vandale" boulder, and as there was nobody there to my surprise, I stopped and decided to try the what for me feels like the crux move of "Le Bon Sens". About a year and a half ago, I had injured the inside of my elbow trying it, and I hadn't come back for it since, as I was afraid to get injured again, or even more. It was the move that I hadn't been able to do yet when working out the separate moves.
I slowly built it up and after some time, I had done the move, the only one that I hadn't been able to do yet. My skin was too bad by then to give it a go from the start, but it was okay. I hadn't planned on the trying the problem in the first place, and I was happy that I done the crux move. This problem has made it back on my list. Not very high, but it's back on it.
I slowly built it up and after some time, I had done the move, the only one that I hadn't been able to do yet. My skin was too bad by then to give it a go from the start, but it was okay. I hadn't planned on the trying the problem in the first place, and I was happy that I done the crux move. This problem has made it back on my list. Not very high, but it's back on it.
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