Sunday, I showed Pieter the yet unpublished boulder of "Esthétique", of which we both did the standing start as well as the standing start of "Esthétique (direct)", merely because the first two holds for the right hand on the sitstart were wet. I had already both sitstarts in May of last year, but still had the left exit to do, "Esthétique (gauche)". I had tried it a few times last year, but got stuck with a wrong method and sort of forgot about it since. Pieter and I started working on that standing start and he was able to find a better method. We got close then, but I had to bring my oldest son to Paris and had to leave early. It didn't bother me too much, because it's a perfect boulder to come and try after work or even after dinner when the days are longer.
Yesterday, it was raining the whole morning and there was no option for climbing at all. After cleaning the house though, the rain had almost stopped and I decided last minute to go scout an undisclosed nearby area and hopefully clean some boulders. I did end up cleaning one and will probably go and try it this weekend, the oh so crowed infamous Easter weekend.
With beautiful weather announced for today, despite having to work some overtime, I decided to postpone dinner and go back to Rocher Cailleau to try and hopefully finish "Esthétique (gauche)". It was still, but the air was dry and the conditions not too bad. It turned out however, that my skin needed to warm up before I could start feeling the good friction on those slopers.
The sun was setting and there was a nice sense of total peace out there. I ended up doing the standing start and enjoyed being out there, it was as if I was one with the forest and the boulder, it's hard to explain.
Even though the sitstart adds a couple of very nice moves, it barely adds half a grade, but I could start feeling that I hadn't eaten anything yet today, so I didn't come closer than falling off the before last move a few times. I didn't mind, because there will be much more after work or dinner sessions to come.
Fontainebleau - Rocher Cailleau - Esthétique (gauche debout) 7B+
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