March 27, 2022 - Seek and thou shall climb.

My hands were hurting and the skin on them was burning when I got up this morning, but with again a beautiful day ahead, I wanted to go out to forest and at least check out some boulders. While talking to Stéphan (Denys) a few days ago, he had reminded me of an isolated and well hidden boulder in the small and calm area of Oncy-sur-Ecole Sud, close to home. Almost ten years ago, when we just moved to here, I had been looking for that boulder with "Volt Face" and despite two visits, I didn't manage to find it. It was only during the last lockdown last year, when I was scouting that whole area, that I finally stumbled upon it. Being on the North side of the hill though, it was wet and it definitely needed to be rebrushed as well. Nature does what nature does, and the boulder was mostly covered with moss again.
Given the state of my hands, I wasn't entirely sure of being able to climb, but I decided to take some metal brushes and clean the boulder again. 
It was not even a year ago when I found the boulder, but this morning, I had to seek for quite a while to find it back despite knowing that it was really close from where I remembered that it was. That part of the forest is very dense with some small and some big mossy boulders everywhere. The boulder with "Volte Face" is so well hidden between other boulders that it can only be seen when standing a few meters from it. He who seeks shall find though, and that's exactly what happened.
I spent quite some time brushing the boulder again, and the cleaner it got, the more motivated I was to finally try it. Maybe it was the psyche or the adrenalin, but the burning skin and pain on my hands faded with every stroke of the brush.
When the boulder was clean again, I took my time to work out the moves and sooner than I had expected, topped the first variant, "Vire-Volt".

Fontainebleau - Oncy-sur-École Sud - Vire-Volt 7B+

With the motivation higher than ever, and the moral boosted, I regained energy quickly and climbed "Volt Face" soon after.

Fontainebleau - Oncy-sur-École Sud - Volt Face 7C

By that time, brushing included, several hours had gone by and as I was taking a break and almost getting ready to leave, I had a look deeper in the roof and took out the metal brush again. I had noticed some possible holds deep in the back of the roof and started cleaning them. 
After a few tries, it was clear that another variant was possible, starting deep under the roof on the left side. It took me almost another hour to work out the quite physical moves to get into the start of "Volt Face". It was a satisfying feeling to also climb this one out. 
Starting left deep under the roof with an undercling left hand near the end of the roof adds some very nice moves, but might be morpho for small climbers, or ones with shorter arms.

Fontainebleau - Oncy-sur-École Sud - Volt Face (du fond) 7C(7C+)

Another half or so was spent trying the same deep start and finishing in "Vire-Volt", but after falling off the last move a few times, I had to throw in the towel. The energy levels had become too low to continue. I'll go back for it some hot day in Summer, as it's an ideal Summer boulder.

March 26, 2022 - North West.

No, the title of this post doesn't refer to Kanye West's daughter, as I believe she was named as such, but who really cares about that anyway? It simply tells something about the areas that I set foot in today, being Éléphant Nord and Éléphant Ouest.
I had to work a few hours this morning, so it was later than usual that I was able to leave for climbing. The temperature was already rising, but there was a nice breeze. Nevertheless, as the skin on my fingers felt really bad, I didn't expect much but decided to go have a look at "Ill Niño" in Éléphant Nord. I didn't expect to top it out at all, which I didn't, but had a good short session working on it. I actually was able to do the first half and touch the high sloper a few times, but my skin was so wrecked that it felt like my hands were burning after a while. I didn't mind it that much, because to be honest, what I had done was already way beyond my expectations. New project on my list.
Walking back down the hill, I passed by "Nutty Nat" and as it was nicely in the shade, decided to give it a few tries. It turned out to be a quick done deal.

Fontainebleau - Éléphant Nord - Nutty Nat 7B

At that point, it started to become pretty crowded for the area, and it somehow felt like an American invasion. Nothing against Americans, far from it, but to say it mildly, they could be heard pretty well. I fled the area, walked around the hill of Éléphant and ended up in Éléphant Ouest where I decided to spend the last moments of my session trying the beautiful "Comme il vous Plaira". As the boulder is situated low on the North side of a hill and the problem being on the North face of the boulder, I had never seen this problem completely dry the few times that I passed by it.
I already felt quite tired, so I took my time to work out the moves of the first part before making any real attempts. The process took me longer than expected, probably because of my burning skin, but when I felt ready, I luckily didn't need another attempt to make it to the top. I felt quite pumped for some reason.

Fontainebleau - Éléphant Ouest - Comme il vous Plaira 7A

March 25, 2022 - A royal encounter.

After some stressful days at work and with some more work to be done tomorrow morning, I stopped an hour early today and used the short free time to go back to the new small nearby area of "Chemin Royal d'Oncy". This period of the year is probably the best to go there as the hunting season just finished and the area not yet being conquered by bushes, making the boulders still quite accessible. There are only a handful boulders, the one with "Oncy Colle" being the biggest.
"Oncy Colle" is registered as a traverse, but the line going through the small roof is actually quite a logical one and I must say that it doesn't really climb as a traverse at all. On the other hand, the moves under the roof felt atypical and pretty hard, nice for sure though.
As expected, I was alone, but the approaching sound of dry leaves cracking under the pressure of weight caught my attention and I expected to see a deer or maybe a boar any moment, until a face of a man appeared through the trees. He didn't look completely unknown, but I couldn't recognize who it was that was coming in my direction. When he presented himself as Stéphan Denys, I couldn't suppress feeling honored when shaking his hand. Stéphan is one of the living legends of the forest and opener of many what have become classical problems. I thought he was taller, and it was funny to hear that he thought the same about me.
Soon after our initial encounter, I did "Oncy Colle", after which we chatted and exchanged information about new and boulders still unknown to the general public. I felt a bit sorry when I had to leave, but the exchange will surely continue in the future.

Fontainebleau - Chemin Royal d'Oncy - Oncy Colle 7A+(7A)

March 23, 2022 - Horse steak.

Jan apparently had a good but exhausting and skin wrecking session yesterday, working in "Papillon", so he left the choice for climbing up to me. I chose "Deus Ex Machina" in Rocher Saint-Germain Ouest, because it's one of those boulders that I wanted to try for a long time already, but never dared to try it alone.
Jan and Gina were running late this morning, and wrote that I could already go to "Deus Ex Machina" where they would join me soon. I'm not exactly sure, but it could have been just the thought that they would join me any moment that made me already step in and actually try the first couple of moves. I wasn't able to reach the high sloper, but when I landed quite safely back on the ground, it gave me confidence. Barely ten minutes later, I topped out the beautiful "Deus Ex Machina", just before the arrival of Jan and Gina.

Fontainebleau - Rocher Saint-Germain Ouest - Deus Ex Machina 7B

I also wanted to try "Manta", a new problem on a boulder just above "Deus Ex Machina", but for some reason decided not to in the end. Jan and Gina had arrived in the meantime and the fact that they arrived without crashpad and climbing gear, made me realize that Jan was really tired after two and a half weeks almost non stop climbing. They were having a rest day, so I really appreciated that they joined me after all, just to spot me and keep me some company. Thanks for that Jan and Gina, the gesture and the company was much appreciated.
Jan advised me to do "Out Système", another boulder that I never tried before. I had seen it already a few years ago, but I think it was in bad conditions, or maybe looked to exposed at that time.
There are two possible exits of this problem and I started with the exit exit on the right, and did it on my second attempt.

Fontainebleau - Rocher Saint-Germain Ouest - Out Système (droite) 7A

The left exit followed immediately. 
For some reason that I can't remember, we had been talking about horsemeat and horse steak and I only realized when editing the movie that Jan said something like 'Now you may go home and bake your horse steak' when I topped out "Out Système". 

Fontainebleau - Rocher Saint-Germain Ouest - Out Système 7A(7A+)

I didn't go home yet, but spent a short time trying "Si t'es Petit, Sois Technique (assis)" on the top of the hill near the parking. I came very close, but as the boulder was full on in the sun, it was starting to get too warm. I don't mind coming back for this one some other day.
It was a funny coincidence to see a horse steak defrosting on the kitchen counter when I arrived back home. We had horse steak for dinner this evening.

March 20, 2022 - A bunch without Brady.

It was a good weekend for climbing and with Bram (Van Geert) and Tom visiting Jan (Gorrebeeck) and Gina, we were a small bunch.
Yesterday we met up to climb in Apremont Fond des Gorges. While the others were warming up in Apremont Est, I started in "Saïgon". I had already done the standing start of this beauty back in May 2019, and wanted to go try its sitstart this time. I was able to repeat the standing start on my third or fourth attempt this time, and as soon as I managed to do all the moves from the sitstart into the stand, I thought it wouldn't be long before I would be able to link it all together. Many times I was able to get well beyond the standing start when coming from the sit, but always seemed to mess up the sequence that I had done just moments earlier. Hours later, I had to throw in the towel, but with the progression that I had made, I felt satisfied after all.

This morning, I woke up with soar muscles and sweaty hands due to loss of skin. Nevertheless, I proposed Jan to show him around in Justice de Noisy. I left home with my main goal being "Les Experts de la Grimpe", the last 7B+ of the area that I still had to do, but one that is mostly wet or the bad slopers near the top being too humid.
I arrived before the others and started with rebrushing most of this quite unpopular boulder. The almost constant humidity on this boulder made it ideal for the moss to grow back quickly. Luckily, this time was it was dry enough and just before the arrival of the others, I managed to climb it.

Fontainebleau - Justice de Noisy - Les Experts de la Grimpe 7B+(7B)

I watched Bram and Jan climb the beautiful "Le Poli Soir" and used the occasion to take a short break and catch my breath. Soon after I got away with the very short slopey traverse of "Électro Hyper Sensible" on my second attempt. I could have flashed it, but I had jumped off before topping out because I hadn't started recording it. Who really cares about a flash anyway, I know for sure that I don't.

Fontainebleau - Justice de Noisy - Électro Hyper Sensible 7B(7A+)

Bram, Tom and also Jan climbed "Petit Scarabée", but as I had already done this almost a year ago, I decided to go for "Les Experts de la Grimpe (droite)". 

Fontainebleau - Justice de Noisy - Les Experts de la Grimpe (droite) 6C+(7A)

As a bunch, we then still had fun trying "Dure Limite", but having done this one also not very long ago, I didn't push myself too much and left it for the others to continue trying. I watched how they made progress, but didn't wait for anyone to top it, before going back home. I don't know if anyone finished it, but I will probably hear that from Jan this upcoming Wednesday.

March 18, 2022 - Royal.

It was only a really short and quick climb due to time constraints after work, but I just couldn't resist the beautiful weather.
I chose the new and very nearby tiny sector of Chemin Royal d'Oncy, at only a few hundred meters from the Intermarché. Only a handful of boulders and the hardest being only one 7A, but it was perfect for the time that I had.
The boulder with "Horloge Royale" is not very big, but looks beautiful. It doesn't only that way, but it is some great climbing, with very nice moves using slopey pockets.
Didn't take me long, but did it twice in a row to get a different angle. The second time, the topout looked more clean as I knew exactly what to expect. Short but very fun session, I can enjoy the small things in life, I don't need much.

Fontainebleau - Chemin Royal d'Oncy - Horloge Royale 7A

March 13, 2022 - A long quick one.

The sun was out when I woke up this morning, but as my weather app predicted a 50% chance of rain starting at 11h, I sent a text message to Jan (Gorrebeeck) that I was going for what I expected to be a very quick and probably short climb on the quick drying and close to home boulder of "La Voie Active" in Mont Pivot. Jan and Gina quickly finished their coffee and without having breakfast, they joined at the boulder about ten minutes after I had arrived.
To warmup, I made a quick repeat of "L'Imparfait du Subversif (direct)", almost immediately followed by Jan. Soon after, I repeated "L'Imparfait du Subversif" itself with relative ease. Having spent so much time on this boulder in the past, helps with the muscle memory apparently.
In the meantime, we were joined by two other climbers, Diana and Mikael (Uponen), respectively from Germany and Finland, who also had the good idea of coming to this quick drying boulder featuring many problems. A perfect little playground. While the others were still working on "L'Imparfait du Subversif", Mikael brought my attention to another still unpublished variant on "La Voie Active", with an exit to the right of the arete, using a crimp right hand. Thanks to the muscle memory, I didn't need to work out the first part of the problem, so it didn't take very long to do that unpublished line. 
With so many variants on this boulder, it's hard to believe that this hasn't been done before, but being unpublished and without any further information to be found, I named it "La Voie Active (droite)". It felt like 7A, but the others, who didn't have enough time to finish it due to rain making the boulder wet, it might as well be 7A+. Hence the proposed grade of 7A(7A+).

Fontainebleau - Mont Pivot - La Voie Active (droite) 7A(7A+)

It was well past the 11h mark and besides a few drops, it only really started raining around 13h. As the boulder was wet, I showed Jan the other boulder with "Le Passeur" and "Stalker". "Stalker" is what they sometimes call a 'one-move wonder' and even though I have to disagree with it being a wonder, the grade is completely based on the very first move where the hardest part is to get your butt off the ground. Once that first move is done, there is nothing hard to it anymore.
I had briefly tried "Stalker" a couple of times before, but as I never get my ass off the ground, I gave up on it pretty quickly. It seemed to be something that Jan liked, and after seeing him making progress, I decided to try along. Motivating each other helped and it wasn't after very long that Jan was able to do the move and top it out. I followed minutes after him, but not before I tore a big chunk of skin out of my right hand, leaving some blood stains on the holds. Jan did it a second time right after I had my topout.
What I thought would be a quick short session, could not be less true. We ended our session after four hours of climbing, when it really started too much.

Fontainebleau - Mont Pivot - Stalker 7C

March 09, 2022 - The impossible victory.

Many years ago, when I was in Rocher du Potala for the first time, the beautiful boulder with "Pierre Ponce" caught my eye. The traces of magnesium revealed that this boulder was apparently being climbed or tried now and then, and I remember standing there in awe, finding it hard to believe that this would even be possible. Especially with such a scary landing. Even though I never expected it, almost ten years later, I actually dared and tried it for the first time. Trying this what was once a mythical boulder, already felt like a victory on itself. I was alone though and didn't dare to give it all that I got.
Several years later, I tried it again, but that time with an extra crashpad and Pieter spotting and trying with me. I was able to work out all the moves separately then, which felt like another victory, and it was then that I realized then that it was actually possible.
Feeling quite confident, I went back last year in September, carried two crashpads all the way there, only to find out that there was a hornets nest in the big hole right in front of the starting hold. Being distracted by the hornets flying around me, I had no choice but to let it go and come back for it in the Winter time after the hornets had abandoned their nest.

Having the day off today and with good conditions for several days in a row, "Pierre Ponce" caught my attention again when I going through my 'wantlist' on bleau.info yesterday evening. Even though still in some doubt, I more or less decided to back today, but didn't look forward to carry two crashpads again up to there. As if it was a telepathic calling, the text message that Jan (Gorrebeeck) sent me minutes after making my decision asking me if I was climbing on Wednesday, came like a gift from Heaven. Not having done it himself yet, he agreed with my reply asking to go to "Pierre Ponce". I was psyched and started to get nervous.
Jan, his wife Gina, and I met this morning on the parking of Le Vaudoué, caught up talking after a few months not seeing each other, and motivated we walked to "Pierre Ponce".
I worked out some of the moves separately again as a warmup and after I also managed to stick the crux move, I turned on the camera and started to feel the so-called 'sending stress'. I do tend to get that feeling when I'm trying a what feels for me like a mythical boulder and getting close to a send. Basically any attempt could be a successful one as long as I'm able to keep calm and stay focused on the move sequence. It was such a relief to find myself on top of "Pierre Ponce" moments later.
Hours later, I had to leave and Jan came very close to a send as well. He and Gina stayed, taking a longer break before he would go for some last attempts. As I didn't get any text message anymore afterwards, I figure that his energy levels didn't get high enough anymore to get to a send as well. Nevertheless, his session was definitely good and not in vain. He will surely get it next time.

Fontainebleau - Rocher du Potala - Pierre Ponce 7C+(7C)

March 06, 2022 - Runner up.

My son was participating in a 10km run through the forest and had to be on the parking of the cemetery of our village Noisy-sur-Ecole at 9h this morning to get his number and chip for time registration. The start was at 9h30. I dropped him off around 8h30 and used the occasion to go for a climb in Justice de Noisy. As it has been dry for a good number of days, I had the idea to try the very slow drying "Les Experts de la Grimpe". Unfortunately, the big key sloper on the top was still humid after so much time without rain, so I had quick look around for something else to try. The very nearby "Crache ton Venin" was a good choice. It was the right time to try it now that the ferns were all gone and not growing back yet. Hidden between some other boulders, it seemed like a quick and easy catch, but I did need some time to work out the moves. With an easy topout, the grade was definitely established at the first moves just inches above the ground. It looked easy, but it turned out hard enough for the 7A+ grade.

Fontainebleau - Justice de Noisy - Crache ton Venin 7A+(7A)

Right next to "Crache ton Venin", there is the 'floating' boulder of "Virgule Flottante", one that I had tried once, but couldn't find a way to reach high enough on the arete left hand. I doubted for a minute, but as I was there now, I figured I would give another chance.
This time though, I took my time and figured out a way to reach high enough using a beautiful left kneebar. A much nicer climb than I thought last time when I left empty handed. Grade wise, I would have believed it if someone would have told it was low end 7B, but I'll stick with high end 7A+.

Fontainebleau - Justice de Noisy - Virgule Flottante 7A(7B)

Last, but not least, I had a look at the other slow drying boulder of "Pascal Brutal". I had tried this once before as well, but couldn't find a working method for what seemed like the crux move. This time, I worked it out separately and was a bit surprised that was unlock that sequence. By the time I wanted to give it some attempts from the start, my son had finished his run and had joined me where I was. He was proud to say that he finished in second place in his category. Not bad for his first time running 10km. A couple of attempts later, I felt proud as well when I topped out "Pascal  Brutal".
This problem is much nicer than it looked at first. If it wouldn't be so slow drying, it could very well be a very popular problem.
It was barely noon, and I had already finished my session. It was okay though, it was a good one.

Fontainebleau - Justice de Noisy - Pascal Brutal 7B+(7C)

March 05, 2022 - A different goal.

I had a few other priority goals than climbing today. My elbows and shoulders have been hurting for quite some time now, and after last Wednesday, I felt that I should take it easy climbing wise this weekend. The weather was announced to be beautiful, so my main goals were basic and simple; I wanted to enjoy the beauty of the forest and do some work in the garden. Climbing was just going to be an extra. The small, quiet and sunny area of Roche qui Tourne in Coquibus seemed a perfect choice for today. I didn't have anything specific in mind, but rather wanted to stroll around alone and do whatever I wanted at that moment.
A blue sky, a nice warm sun and besides trying some other boulders that didn't suit me very well, I did get a small cherry on the cake by doing "Con Torsion (assis)". A very small cherry, but I really enjoyed the beautiful surroundings and the solitude. It was what I wanted and aimed for, so all in all, it was a mission accomplished.

Fontainebleau - Roche qui Tourne - Con Torsion (assis) 7A(7A+)

March 02, 2022 - 56kg of potatoes.

Last weekend I was in an extremely rubbish shape for some reason and I didn't do more than walking from boulder to boulder, trying to climb, but got slammed by each single one of them. It was like a 56kg sac of potatoes trying to get on a boulder, there is no way.
On Sunday though, I did somehow manage to work out the moves of "Turbo" in Rocher du Télégraphe, and was even to do it in two overlapping parts. That was the best climbing of the whole weekend. As soon as I was home after that session, I did add it "Turbo" to my wantlist to not forget about it, but I had already in mind then to go back for it on Wednesday, today.

I had absolutely no idea what to expect when I was walking towards "Turbo" this morning, but already after my first attempt on it, I could feel that it might be possible today. That was at least my impression until I pulled a split in my right middle finger when using the tiny crimp under the overhang to stop me from swinging off the slopey arete. I decided to work out a slightly different method, avoiding that tiny crimp. I did find one, but as increased the number of attempts drastically, I needed to take a short break.
After the break, I released some steam and sent "Turbo" right away.

Fontainebleau - Rocher du Télégraphe - Turbo 7C

I still had time and was motivated, so I moved over to the beautiful boulder of "Le Cadeau" to try once more the quite hard "Le Cadeau Empoisonné". I had tried this already several short sessions, but never got to the point where I could get to the high edge. To my pleasant surprise, I was able to reach and hold it this time, so the game was on. It became a matter of getting there again and daring to top out with the hard mantle. 
I almost chickened out, but after some good brushing of the slopey mantle, did find the courage to go all the way and struggle myself on top of it.
In my opinion, and in the opinion of 60% of the repeaters, this is rather 7B. In any case, a beautiful line on a first class boulder.

Fontainebleau - Rocher du Télégraphe - Le Cadeau Empoisonné 7A+(7B)