Not a long climbing session, but enough to wear out what was left of my back and climb "La Baisée Niera". A very isolated boulder in Rocher Cailleau, of which the only registered repeater was Steven Demets, back in 2010. Only one registered repeat due to its isolation or just because it is quite hard for the grade, I can't say for sure, but I do know that it is hard for the grade. It's not not for nothing that it was the third time that I was trying it. A North facing wall without crimps, but only bad slopers, requiring good conditions and more technique than strength. Only four moves, but hard enough to make it a hard 7A+, maybe even soft 7B. It's probably somewhere in between. Glad to have ticked this one off, and so was my back as it still hurts a lot from a couple of days ago.
Fontainebleau - Rocher Cailleau - La Baisée Niera 7A+
I don't know why, but for some reason I had always walked passed "La Fourmi Verte" without noticing it whenever I was in Buthiers Tennis. Maybe, I always chickened out because of the height, but I couldn't even remember having a look at it before. Yesterday though, I did have a good look at it and started trying it as soon I felt confident. The crux is near the top and as I only had one crashpad with me and because of having a very painful back as a leftover from my visit to Apremont Désert a few days ago, I felt hesitant to give it all I had. Despite that, I did come pretty close and was determined to come back the next day, but with an extra crashpad to boost my confidence. This morning, I turned my determination into fact and took an extra crashpad before leaving to Buthiers Tennis again. After seeing a couple of videos of "La Fourmi Verte", I noticed how high others had put their right foot for the crux. I tried the same on my first attempt today, but a slip of my left foot set me back on the ground below. It was a slip that could have caused a bad fall, but luckily I was able to avoid that. Nevertheless, it did make me rethink my method with a lower right foot and I looked for good spot where to place it, but there wasn't much. Somehow, I did manage to keep it where I wanted and was able to push through the crux and up onto the high boulder. There I was, feeling relieved and excited, but couldn't immediately see a way how to climb down and with my still painful back, I didn't want to risk jumping down. Luckily, a nearby tree was there to be my savior and allowed me to climb down safely. Beautiful problem of which I'm still wondering why it was able to escape my attention for so long.
Fontainebleau - Buthiers Tennis - La Fourmi Verte 7B(7A+)
The French minister of Education has announced today that from next school year on, as soon as there is one CV19 case in a class, all non-vaccinated pupils of that class will have to stay at home and only vaccinated ones will be allowed in class. Just another step in pushing children aged 12 to 17 years young to inject themselves with a product that has only been authorized for emergency use. This is not the same as a fully approved product. This aggressive approach is worrying to say the least.
I went to Apremont Désert this morning, but the good weather that they announced yesterday hadn't arrived yet. The sky was grey, looked menacing and the clouds even let out some drops now and then. Luckily, the boulders were not wet anymore when I walked through the area, but I wouldn't say that the conditions were good. The only good thing about the weather was that it was a mild 20°C, not too hot for climbing.
I warmed up with a direct version of "Pas de Boutons!", which went down pretty fast.
Fontainebleau - Apremont Désert - Pas de Boutons! (direct) 7A
Next, I decided to go for the lower start version, sitting in the back of the roof and adding a very reachy move with a hard swing to the knob like holds. On my first attempt, I went with the wrong hand and thinking that the crashpad was right below me, I let go with the intention to fall on my back softly. This couldn't have been less true. Instead of falling with my back on the pad, I fell with my spine directly on a small boulder right next to it. It hurt like crazy. The adrenalin was luckily pumping through my veins so I was able to continue my attempts until I was successful.
Fontainebleau - Apremont Désert - Pas de Boutons! (du fond) 7B
I could feel my back stiffening up, but still continued with the nearby "La Squille (assis)", starting with my butt on the ground. Fitting my style, I did this on my first attempt.
Fontainebleau - Apremont Désert - La Squille (assis du sol) 7A+(7B)
For "L'Attaque de la Squille" on the same boulder, I needed two attempts. Using toehooks, this fit my style as well. I was glad in a way that I got to do these so quickly, because the adrenalin was running out, and the pain on my back was getting worse with every minute. By the time I arrived home, I could barely get out of the car. Now it even hurts to simply lift my arms up. Could be a rough night to come.
Fontainebleau - Apremont Désert - L'Attaque de la Squille (du sol) 7B(7A+)
The French Parliament's decision yesterday evening to vote for the 'Pass Sanitaire' and the obligation for all health care workers to be CV19 vaccinated has not gone by without a bang. The obligation not only counts for health care workers, but anyone who works in a hospital or care/nursing home, going from the cleaning personnel to the head surgeon. There are some parts that were not approved, even though none of great interest. What shocked me the most, is that health care personnel will not be fired if they decide not to get the injection, but will be put on leave without salary. This means that they are either forced to take the injection to get their salary back or quit their jobs. The latter will make them loose any benefit from the state for being jobless. These are the same people that were asked to continue working after testing positive to CV19, but showing no symptoms or not feeling sick. These are the same people that many of us applauded for every evening. Now they get the spit in their face. Is this really what we want this country, the country of 'Les Droits de l'Homme' (the human rights), to become ? A country where medical choice is punished financially, but also by taking away certain liberties and God given rights. We have supported and coped with many restrictions over the past year and a half, but I have a feeling that they have gone a step too far now. Counter reactions have started but not being reported on by mainstream media, and when they are, they are being minimized. I have a feeling though that people can no longer be silenced and that this decision could turn out in quite a big bang. Conveniently, the amendment to require that same 'Pass Sanitaire' for government deputies to enter the Senate/Parliament, places where more than fifty people are gathered, has been rejected. Another spit in the face. They should be ashamed of themselves.
The names of the two problems that I climbed today in Beauvais Hameau are in line with the bang.
I barely had skin left on my fingertips, but still managed to squeeze out the relatively new "Entrée de Game". Hard to believe that such boulders were still to be opened in the oh so popular area of Roche aux Sabots, especially when it is the first boulder when coming from the parking. Very morphologic start where even I with my long arms had difficulties to reach both starting holds. After doing the standing start, which felt already quite hard due to the reachy aspect, I tried the sitstart too. I could do the first two moves, but I don't see myself yet getting to the point where the standing start begins. Blood starting coming off my fingertips so I had to call it a day anyway. I definitely understand now how the 7A(7A+) standstart can become a 7C+(8A) for the sitstart.
Fontainebleau - Roche aux Sabots - Entrée de Game 7A(7A+)
A lot of question marks next to France's national motto. As most will probably know by now, starting today, we need the so called 'Passe Sanitaire' to be able to go to the restaurants, movies, museums, bars, events where more than 50 people are gathered, take a long distance train and even for having a drink outside on a terrace of a tavern or bar. The pass contains a QR code that will state that the owner of it has either received two Covid vaccinations, has natural temporary immunity due to previous Covid contamination no longer than six months ago, or has a negative PCR test of maximum 48 hours ago.
Liberté, freedom. Anyone who needs a pass to be able to enjoy aforementioned freedoms, is in my opinion not free at all.
Égalité, equality. In my humble opinion, this pass no longer treats people as equal individual, but makes a clear distinction between those who have made medical choice, which ever choice that may be. Vaccinated people receive a different regime than the non-vaccinated. This comes extremely close to Apartheid.
Fraternité, fraternity. President Macron's latest speech of about a week ago and the mainstream media clearly try to create two groups of people and attempts to set vaccinated people up against the non-vaccinated people. This was proven once again today when I was listening to a so called debate on the national radio RTL where listeners were allowed to dial in and express their opinion about the new measure or restriction. I was disgusted about how the so called moderators of the radio were steering the debate, and how they didn't even try to hide that they had clearly picked the side of those who were in favor of the pass.
To be clear, I am not against vaccines and would call myself even pro vaccines when they have proven their efficacy, but I strongly believe that every individual should have the freedom and the God given right to decide for themselves what they inject themselves with. The Covid vaccines have become mandatory for health care workers who have time until the 15th of September to take the injections. If they don't do it, they will lose their job. The injections are not mandatory for others yet, but the pass adds so much social pressure that many have chosen to take them. Most not for their or others health, but solely to be able to enjoy the freedom that they otherwise will lose.
The French government has wiped their dirty feet on the national motto by voting in favor of this pass. What's next ?
Luckily, we don't need a pass (yet) to go to the forest, so that's of course what I did and went to Rocher Saint-Germain after dropping off my oldest son in Fontainebleau. With "Pointe à Pitre" high on my list, I walked straight to that floating boulder. I have been trying it on and off for several years, but it was only today that I finally made my way up, despite the heat and very bad slopers. Lost a lot of skin off my fingertips, but it was all worth it.
Fontainebleau - Rocher Saint-Germain - Pointe à Pitre 7B+
On the way back, I stopped at "L'Arête des Comiques", an overhanging slopey arete that I had tried once a few years ago, but as it didn't fit my style back then, I didn't spend a lot of time on it and gave up pretty fast. Today, even though not without a small fight, I did manage to finish it.
Fontainebleau - Rocher Saint-Germain Est - L'Arête des Comiques 7A+(7A)
With the heat of the last days, it seemed like a good idea to back to Mont Simonet with the hope that the starting holds of "La Tortue Lutte (assis)" would finally be dry. Facing North, they have been wet every time that I was there, so was never able to give it a go. At 10h30 this morning, it was already getting very warm again when I parked at Mont Simonet. I didn't pay much attention to the car that parked right next to me, but looked up when I heard my name. It was a pleasant surprise and a big coincidence to see that it was Jerome Collet. He wanted to try some boulders in Mont Simonet Ouest, so we walked together for the most part until we had to go our own way. The big left starting hold of "La Tortue Lutte (assis)" was almost dry, but unfortunately still too humid, especially for the holds the holds and slopers that would follow after the start. Nevertheless, I was able to get a feel of the first move, which apparently is way too big for me to be able to reach the closest possible hold, which is a slopey crimp. No way that I would ever get that far. Luckily, for once, the starting holds of "Paddo Jump" were dry. Having been unable to give it some real attempts in the past due to them being not dry enough, today, I was finally able to give it some real attempts. I only needed two to make it to the top.
Fontainebleau - Mont Simonet - Paddo Jump 7A+
I then walked over to Mont Simonet Ouest to join Jerome with what he was about to try. I was able to do "Régime Sec" on my second attempt. It felt soft for the proposed 7A as I didn't even bother to take out the camera. Jerome finished it right after I did. The remainder of the climbing session, we spent on trying "A Cant'a Me", a hard 7B opened by the huge Fred. For our height, it definitely feels a bit harder. We will both have to come back for it, despite having done some really good attempts.
It's chocking to see the images and video footage of the floods in Belgium, The Netherlands and Germany. Thousands of people are homeless and over a hundred have died or are missing. Big up to all those who are out there doing all that they can to save who can still be saved.
Meanwhile, the rain stopped here and despite mild conditions, I drove to Mont Simonet this morning. I had several problems that I wanted to try, but only got away with two, one the same boulder. The others that I had in mind needed better conditions.
In the end, I couldn't care less, as there are much worse things than not being able to climb a boulder.
I warmed up with "Olloquiegui (droite)", and managed to finish it on my second attempt. As I didn't check the topout, I didn't know what to expect and finished it without aesthetics.
Fontainebleau - Mont Simonet - Olloquiegui (droite) 7A
The more direct original version, "Olloquiegui", I had already tried a few times before, but never got close. Today though, I found a method and finished it, albeit not without a struggle and some swearing.
When I tried "L'Arête Scherrer" in Restant du Long Rocher Ouest a couple of years ago, it felt very possible, but conditions were not in favor, so it would have to be for another time. That was already a few years ago, and this morning, when I started trying, I wondered what I was thinking back then. My attempts were terrible and it seemed like I couldn't find a good method and the boulder felt damp from a light drizzle that passed by only moments before I arrived. The sun came out though and the friction started to feel better with every attempt until I felt ready to setup the camera and start filming. The ascent followed soon after. Very nice problem!
Fontainebleau - Restant du Long Rocher Ouest - L'Arête Scherrer 7B
Not far from there, I flashed "Rincewind" with much ease. This didn't feel like 7A+ at all, but rather 6C+, maybe a soft 7A at most. Not very nice neither, but okay, one more boulder ticked.
Fontainebleau - Restant du Long Rocher Ouest - Rincewind 7A+
There wasn't much time before the rain would start, so it was a good decision this morning to go somewhere not too far from the car. The couple of new boulders opened by Tony (Fouchereau) in Apremont Butte aux Dames seemed like a good idea. I was able to climb "Covid-19" on my second attempt, a very nice line that deserves to be 7A in my opinion.
Fontainebleau - Apremont Butte aux Dames - Covid-19 6C+(7A)
"Yellowstone", just behind the previous, has only hard move though, and felt rather like a soft 7B+ at most. This one also went down on my second attempt, but I must add that it does quite fit my style.
Fontainebleau - Apremont Butte aux Dames - Yellowstone 7C+(7C)
I finished "Yellowstone" just in time, because on my way back to the car, it had started raining. Nevertheless, I still felt like climbing and decided to drive to Bois du Rocher. It is after all more or less on the way home and the rain hadn't started there yet. To stick with the subject, I tried and did "Covid Monster 19".
Fontainebleau - Bois du Rocher - Covid Monster 19 7A
The sitstart of "Covid Monster 19" will have to be for another time. It's not hard to get from the sit into the stand, but the skin on my fingertips was already far gone. As they announce better weather for tomorrow, I didn't want to ruin my skin too much yet, so decided to clean a boulder at about 30m to the right of "Covid Monster 19". I did the line that I had in mind on my first attempt and named it "Monster Grippe". The grade might be 6C-ish, even though I had hoped it would have been harder.
Fontainebleau - Bois du Rocher - Monster Grippe 6C
Even though I had already spent at least two sessions on "Les Poignets d'Amour (direct assis)" quite some time ago where I didn't even come close to sending, this evening it went down on my second attempt.
Fontainebleau - J.A. Martin - Les Poignets d'Amour (direct assis) 7C(7B)
On the way back to the car, I stopped at "Le Roi Gris", something that I hadn't tried before. This also didn't take long before it was done.
There are so many lines on the "Oblique" boulder in Roche aux Sabots, but it was only yesterday that my eye fell on "Les Dessous de Ghersen". I felt tired yesterday and couldn't finish it, but I had the moves worked out and felt ready this evening after diner to top it out. Not a problem this evening, as it went on my first attempt of the day. Very nice underestimated problem in my humble opinion.
Fontainebleau - Roche aux Sabots - Les Dessous de Ghersen 7A+
Yesterday evening I wanted to climb to let off some steam and started working in "Gyropode (droite)" in Roche aux Sabots. Unfortunately, it started raining after not even fifteen minutes in my session, but as it looked like it would pass quickly, I covered the camera with a towel and did a few more attempts. To no avail, because instead of passing, the rain just got harder and harder and I had to give up and take shelter. I stood there under small roof for about another fifteen minutes, watching the rain. The session was over for the evening. Late this afternoon though, I decided to go back and finish what I started yesterday. Luckily, the weather had been sunny all day and everything was dry again. I was motivated and it didn't take long to finish "Gyropode (droite)". Actually, a much nicer problem than I initially thought, even after having done "Gyropode" about two and a half years ago.
Fontainebleau - Roche aux Sabots - Gyropode (droite) 7B+(7B)
