It was to be expected; two weeks after 19 departments, including Seine-et-Marne, were placed in quarantine again, now the whole country is back at it. A bit less strict than the other times, but still, I am totally fed up with being told until where and until what time I am allowed to go out. I am the owner of my body, and I know when and where to pick up my responsibility and make my own decisions. I, like many others, am always alone in the forest and there is more than enough to do within a 10 km radius from my house, but I can't grasp the fact that doing the exact same thing, being completely alone in the forest, past those 10 km or after 19h, can technically cause me to be fined. It's absolutely ridiculous.
To be clear, I stick to the rules only because I don't want to be fined and thanks to living so close to the forest, but the fact that these rules are being imposed by an entity that has no affinity with me at all is like spitting in the face of freedom. I agree that we need rules to make the system work, but they have to reasonable.
Had a quick climb after work, at only 100m from home and before 19h, and opened a new line on the boulder of "Cadeau Pour un Confiné", boulder 24 on the topo on bleau.info: Bois d'Auvers - Topo Auvers (bleau.info).
Wednesday, March 31, 2021
March 31, 2021 - There we go again.
Friday, March 26, 2021
March 26, 2021 - Not the ninth yet.
I had taken a day off to finish some paint work that I started last weekend, but I had planned to do that in the afternoon so I could go to Buthiers in the morning to try "La Neuvième Forme", a new beautiful prow opened by Oliver Lebreton.
It took some time to move comfortably in those beautiful moves of the first part, it was scary to do the second part, but I chickened out on the last two moves. Even though I gained more and more confidence in the second part, with every attempt, I didn't trust the friction enough today. Such a beautiful line, but I will have to come back for it. Not that I mind having to work again another day in piece of art.
On the way back, I stopped at a more remote part of the area to try "Taisez-Vous et Mangez, Vermines! (assis)". A short explosive problem that seemed to fit my style when I watched the videos.
The description mentions a start with the sidepulls and another low sitstart with a sloper. Published grade on bleau.info is 7B(7B+).
Having done both versions, I think they are quite relative to their grade.
Start with the sidepulls.
Sunday, March 21, 2021
March 21, 2021 - Lost & Found.
With the new confinement measures that went into effect yesterday, we are only allowed to go 10km away from home, but unlimited in time. Despite that, we still have to complete a a form every time we leave the house. The 10km radius this time, allows me to go the whole Trois Pignons, Coquibus, and part of Franchard, until the far end of Franchard Isatis. The new measures will last for four weeks.
As I had to work until 14h in the afternoon yesterday, I wasn't in my usual rhythm when I was finally able to go for a climb and I felt totally off the beat. I wanted to try a completely new problem for me and while browsing some of the areas within my radius on bleau.info, my attention fell on "Gengis Khan" in Rocher de la Reine. A very nice pillar, but as I couldn't get myself into the beat enough again, I gave up after half an hour of non stop trying. I did make progress and I do see it potentially happening, but not yesterday.
I decided to look for something else and crossed the path towards Bois Rond, straight to the boulder of "Madara", a slow drying overhanging prow that had a high chance of being dry.
"Madara" was indeed dry and I was glad to be able to do it, but despite being tired, it rather felt like hard 7A, maybe 7A+ at most. It was only back home that I read that the start was without a supposed pedestal, being the lowest part of the boulder apparently. In my opinion it is simply part of the boulder as it hasn't broken off completely.
It does indeed add more to the compression, making it a much nicer climb when you like compression moves. The topout felt more dirty than yesterday though.
Yesterday (Saturday), I was one of the last climbers in Bois Rond, and noticed some belongings that looked like they were accidently left behind. As I could still hear some distant voices, I continued my way. When I was back in Bois Rond around 11h this morning (Sunday), the same belongings were still in the exact same spot and I was only person around. It concerns a cloth (small towel), a raisin poff ball and a small photo camera. I took it with me with the intent to post this information on several Fontainebleau Facebook pages, hoping to find the rightful owner. The pictures on that camera might be of sentimental value.
If you believe this is yours or someone you know, please contact me. I can ask about some small details to determine the rightful owner.
Monday, March 8, 2021
March 08, 2021 - Keep on whaling.
As the sunny weather was forecasted to continue until Tuesday, I had taken some time off work on Monday; today. Only half a working day, but enough time to finish some work around the house, do a bit of climbing and especially enjoy this cold but beautiful weather.
I had a bit of soar muscles from yesterday, but that didn't withheld me from going back to the small boulder of "Aire de Repos", that I brushed and opened a few weeks ago. Besides "Aire de Repos", I had another logical line in mind, but as it starts on the North side of the roof, it was far from dry enough and I didn't bother cleaning it completely. Greg ('Gars des Bois on bleau.info), who repeated "Aire de Repos", had the same vision, and despite being so kind to clean the remainder of the line, he didn't have the energy left to finish it that day.
Lots of slopers and a hard mantle. Leaving all aesthetics behind, I made it on my second attempt.
Sunday, March 7, 2021
March 07, 2021 - Satisfyingly exhausted.
The weather was beautiful again today, so after doing some work around the house and in the garden, I went for a ride on my bike. I drove passed the elementary school, into the forest and suddenly found myself at La Ségognole area. I had expected to be fully parked, but there was barely anyone parked. As I happened to have my crashpad and climbing stuff on my back, I decided to give "Lamia-San" another a few attempts. It was boulder that I ended with yesterday, almost had it, but had to give up due to sweaty skin.
My fingertips still felt sort of slick from yesterday, but as "Lamia-San" faces North, the rock felt nice and cold and there was surprisingly good friction.
I ended up changing my method more like Bart (Van Raaij), one that I thought was too morpho yesterday, but better subtle foot placement allowed me to reach higher and take the small crimp high up instead of throwing myself to the top sloper.
I regularly take my bike for drive through the forest, but this was definitely one of the nicer rides. I must admit that I'm feeling pretty exhausted though this evening. Satisfyingly exhausted.
Saturday, March 6, 2021
March 06, 2021 - Almost two.
The conditions looked very promising when I left earlier than usual this morning. It was just above freezing point, but the windshield of my car wasn't frozen nor wet. It's a sign of dry air, ideal for good conditions with this cold temperature.
I had several options to go to, but as it was still early and the sun was shining nice, I decided to try Mont Pivot first. Just like last weekend, the small roads towards the Trois Pignons parking areas were partly closed, warning for saturated parking spots. When I parked at La Ségognole, I was the only car at that time though.
It's not often that I return to the same boulder many times in a relatively short period, but I was millimeters away from doing "La Voie Active (gauche)" so many times, that it was just a matter of having just enough friction left for the last move, on which I fell so many times. As all the moves were still in my body from last time, it didn't take much of a warmup to do them all again and begin with attempts from the start.
I think it must have been my fifth or sixth session trying "La Voie Active (gauche)" and even though there was tremendous relief when I finally stuck that last move, I almost felt sad that it was done. The spot where the boulder is located is almost perfect. Luckily, by the time I was back down, I remembered that there is still "Le Retour de l'Imparfait" left for me to do. Same as "La Voie Active (gauche)", but with a slightly easier exit on the left arete. I was tempted to try it, but decided to keep it as a reason to come back this beautiful spot.
I left the pleasant company of another climber that had come to this ever growing in popularity boulder. Or the spot in its whole.
I think I almost stayed for an hour, having made huge progress using part of the new method, even had the top slopey holds with both hands for a second, more than once. The skin of my fingertips had become sweaty after a while though but I didn't mind too much letting it go for the day. Almost two, but I will be going back soon.