Friday, May 22, 2020

May 22, 2020 - Aiming for luck.

I wasn't exaggerating yesterday when I mentioned that crowds visiting the forest was worse than any Easter weekend that I can remember. Browsing through the local news, I actually stumbled upon a news article that mentioned this. It's in French, but the picture on it can give you an idea: https://actu.fr/ile-de-france/noisy-sur-ecole_77339/seine-marne-dimpressionnants-bouchons-foret-fontainebleau-plus-300-pv-dresses_33775245.html
Police gave over 300 fines yesterday apparently.
When I came back from Les Béorlots Ouest, where I climbed this morning, the gendarmerie (police) had blocked the road between Le Vaudoué and Milly-la-Forêt. The situation was apparently the same as yesterday, even though I didn't cross or see anyone during the few hours that I was in Les Béorlots Ouest.

My session started at the big roof boulder of "Jeu de Pierre".
I wanted to warm up in "Santa Carina" with a backwards dyno, which turned out to to become much more than a warmup.
Not a far jump, but the lip is not that good for taking the big swing. I needed a lot of attempts and lost a huge amount of skin with this one. Felt like at least a 7A+.

Fontainebleau - Les Béorlots Ouest - Santa Carina 7A




I had hoped to do some good attempts in "Jeu de Pierre" and "Egérie sans Vergogne", but my skin was so wrecked that it was no use.
Instead, I decided to stroll around and have a look for a recently boulder from David Evrard, the one with "Petit Lu".
Les Béorlots Ouest is a wide area, with spread out pockets of boulders, and as there was indication as to where exactly the boulder is located, I had no choice but to walk up onto the plateau and aim for luck.
Somehow, out of several possible locations, I immediately chose the right one and had walked straight towards the boulder. I found it with a lot of luck.

My first idea to try was "Petit Lu (assis)", but during my attempts, I realized that it was harder than it looked (especially with this wrecked skin), so moved a few meters over to the right and started with "La Rayée".
I got a bit lucky with "La Rayée" as I got on there with the last bot of skin that I had. Very nice problem!

Fontainebleau - Les Béorlots Ouest - La Rayée 7A


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