Saturday, August 31, 2019

August 31, 2019 - Swinging.

Pieter wanted to go back to Buthiers Nord, so the decision was quickly made and that's where we headed. It was going to be hot again, so climbing in the cool shade of the roofs there sounded like a good idea.
Olivier Joanon, who has been opening quite some boulders this Summer was there too, but wrapping up to leave. It was nice to talk to him in person though, after some emailing back and forth some time ago.

We warmed up in "Matrix", that I easily repeated on my first attempt and where Pieter fell off the mantle on his flash attempt. He was literally standing on the boulder, on his tipping point, but just didn't get over it and fell back.
As I had done it only yesterday, I also repeated "Matrix Reloaded" on my first try, and for Pieter it turned out that he really needs to start working on his toehooks.

Yesterday I had briefly tried the crux of "Matrix Revolution", but it seemed impossible at that moment. Even though I hadn't planned on really trying it, after some encouragement and a tiny bit of advice from Pieter, I nearly did the move and all of the sudden it seemed possible.
It's a huge swing to make it into the start of "Matrix" when coming from the left, but once you're able to hold it and don't fall off, you only have to keep calm and climb "Matrix" again. Still, it was suspense until the very end.

Fontainebleau - Buthiers Nord - Matrix Revolution 7B+(7C)




We still spent quite some time under the other roof where Pieter made good progress in "Trinity", but proved yet again that toehooks are his weakness, and maybe also some flexibility.
I played a bit in "Blozone" and worked out the first quarter of the long problem, but that's when it starts to become really hard.

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