A couple of new problems had been opened recently on the magnificent boulder of "Lanceur d'Alerte", so I wanted to try them out and profit from the beautiful surroundings out there.
It was funny to see that also now the standing start of "Lanceur d'Alerte", something that I had been trying since at least a year ago, as the sitstart didn't attract me a lot and the big crux was the dyno anyway.
To warm up, I quite easily flashed one the new problems, "Joie".
I must admit that even though the sun was shining nicely, there was a cold breeze and the conditions were great. On top of that, I felt in remarkably good shape.
Fontainebleau - La Fontaine Saint-Bernard - Joie 7A(6C)
This was my fourth session on the standing start of "Lanceur d'Alerte" and the amount of times that I tried to stick that bad sloper after the dyno, must be over fifty.
That sloper and the sidepull for the left hand, are so bad that it's really difficult to keep the tension and control the jump.
Great joy and much relief when I finally made it!
That sloper and the sidepull for the left hand, are so bad that it's really difficult to keep the tension and control the jump.
Great joy and much relief when I finally made it!
Fontainebleau - La Fontaine Saint-Bernard - Lanceur d'Alerte 7C
After a short break, it took me a only a handful of tries to finish "Joie (droite assis)".
Fontainebleau - La Fontaine Saint-Bernard - Joie (droite assis) 7A+
And did "Joie (assis)" immediately after it on my first attempt.
Fontainebleau - La Fontaine Saint-Bernard - Joie (assis) 7A
I had only planned to go back to "La Surfusion" in the 91.1 area tomorrow, but with these conditions of today, I wanted to make use of them.
There was some doubt if I would at first, as I didn't want to still carry the heavier Mondo pad to lowball, but the fact that I also the smaller and lighter Drop Zone with me was decisive.
"La Surfusion" kind of fits my style.
A low boulder with only a few moves, but hard one, where explosif power is required.
Those slopers are so bad though that I only lost a lot of skin on it during the few sessions that I worked in it.
Finally today, I managed to find my body position, right aim and friction to stick the first move. I didn't want to give up now.
Many tries later, I had lost so much skin that drops of blood were piercing through the fingertip of my right index finger.
I told myself that I only had one more chance now, and miraculously sent it. I paid with my blood for this.
There was some doubt if I would at first, as I didn't want to still carry the heavier Mondo pad to lowball, but the fact that I also the smaller and lighter Drop Zone with me was decisive.
"La Surfusion" kind of fits my style.
A low boulder with only a few moves, but hard one, where explosif power is required.
Those slopers are so bad though that I only lost a lot of skin on it during the few sessions that I worked in it.
Finally today, I managed to find my body position, right aim and friction to stick the first move. I didn't want to give up now.
Many tries later, I had lost so much skin that drops of blood were piercing through the fingertip of my right index finger.
I told myself that I only had one more chance now, and miraculously sent it. I paid with my blood for this.
Fontainebleau - 91.1 - La Surfusion 7B+(7C)
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