With the situation under control now, I was in a desperate need for a timeout and was able to take a few days off to compensate for the overtime hours, with today being the first day.
Spring has only started, but the past few days were like Summer and I was delighted to finally be able to enjoy it too.
Knowing that I was going to have a lot of time for climbing today, I was highly motivated yesterday evening, and the thought of trying "La Maschette" in Rocher Canon kept lingering in my head.
As soon as the dense fog had dissipated this morning, I left to Rocher Canon and arrived at "La Maschette" around 10h.
The busy long days had completely worn me down, and I quickly realised that motivation alone wasn't enough to even remotely do "La Maschette", so I moved over to "La Théorie du Chaos" right above it, on the top of the hill.
Ever since August 2010, when Ivan (Moreels) had shown a video of Marc Lehner climbing "La Théorie du Chaos", I had wanted to try it. For many various reasons though, I had never found the occasion to actually do.
Now it just looked like a perfect spot, up there in the sun, away from the main busy area of Rocher Canon. I sort of made a promise to myself to not leave that spot until I had climbed "La Théorie du Chaos".
Based on what I had seen on Ivan's video, it looked hard, but it turned out to be even harder than that.
A first class problem that requires a lot of body tension and some balance. Beautiful boulder!
Personally, I would give this 7B+.
Fontainebleau - Rocher Canon - La Théorie du Chaos 7B
For some reason, maybe the proximity of Melun, Rocher Canon is not my favourite area, and not long after, I left, with the intention to stop somewhere else on my way home.
I decided that it would be the very calm and silent Bois Rond Auberge, so I could try "1302" again.
On previous attempts, I always slid off the bad rounded crimp for the right hand, resulting in loss of big chunks of skin scraped off the back of my fingers.
I was hesitant now, but was able to send it after barely five minutes. That was last line that I hadn't done yet in that small sector of "Didgeridoo".
I decided that it would be the very calm and silent Bois Rond Auberge, so I could try "1302" again.
On previous attempts, I always slid off the bad rounded crimp for the right hand, resulting in loss of big chunks of skin scraped off the back of my fingers.
I was hesitant now, but was able to send it after barely five minutes. That was last line that I hadn't done yet in that small sector of "Didgeridoo".
Fontainebleau - Bois Rond Auberge - 1302 7B+
The timeout starts to have effect and I'm already feeling a bit disconnected. Luckily it will last for another couple of days.
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