I had taken a few hours off, however, to be able to go and get my youngest son Noah, who is having his sixth birthday, from school. It gave me the occasion to stop for some climbing on my way home.
To increase my chances for dry boulders, I decided to start off at the 91.1 area, where I wanted to try "La Serpe d'Or".
While walking, I passed through the Roche aux Sabots area, and immediately noticed that most of the boulders were dry even there. It gave me an idea for something on the way back.
"La Serpe d'Or" is basically the same as "Le Gardien de But", but instead of starting with the hard pinch left hand, you are allowed to use the good crimp slightly left and above.
It makes the first move to the crimp right hand much easier, but no matter what I tried, that position was too stretched out for me to move enough and make the hard jump. So I decided to try it using the dyno method.
The dyno on itself is not very hard, but holding the swing is. I definitely had my fun.
Fontainebleau - 91.1 - La Serpe d'Or 7B
My idea for the way back was "Gasthaus Unterslag" in Roche aux Sabots Sud.
A few years ago, I had come close to sending it, but the ever eroding ground had made the landing even more steep and dangerous over time.
It was so bad that I had given up the idea of ever trying it again without a few crashpads and a good spotter.
Yesterday however, when I was doing a walk, I passed by it and noticed that some people had improvised quite a good base with long branches and small trees.
I was glad that what was soaking wet yesterday, was now dry and in quite good conditions. It is amazing how fast it can dry sometimes.
I started easy with my sessions and tried to hold off on really going for it until I felt that I had found my perfect position to jump from.
It's only about half a metre of jumping, but the movement you have to make is quite hard and you have to do it extremely fast. On top of that, when you go for it and miss the good edge, you fly way back and there's almost three metres of emptiness under the crashpad. Bad enough to break a leg.
One of the scariest dyno's I had to do, especially without spotter.
A few years ago, I had come close to sending it, but the ever eroding ground had made the landing even more steep and dangerous over time.
It was so bad that I had given up the idea of ever trying it again without a few crashpads and a good spotter.
Yesterday however, when I was doing a walk, I passed by it and noticed that some people had improvised quite a good base with long branches and small trees.
I was glad that what was soaking wet yesterday, was now dry and in quite good conditions. It is amazing how fast it can dry sometimes.
I started easy with my sessions and tried to hold off on really going for it until I felt that I had found my perfect position to jump from.
It's only about half a metre of jumping, but the movement you have to make is quite hard and you have to do it extremely fast. On top of that, when you go for it and miss the good edge, you fly way back and there's almost three metres of emptiness under the crashpad. Bad enough to break a leg.
One of the scariest dyno's I had to do, especially without spotter.
Fontainebleau - Roche aux Sabots Sud - Gasthaus Unterslag 7C(7B+)
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