Saturday, October 28, 2017

October 28, 2017 - No complaints.

It was already sunny in the morning, and after doing some household, I went to Vallée Chaude.
My muscles felt a bit sore from the days before, but I wanted to climb in this nice weather.
I also wanted to avoid the crowd which was definitely going to be present on a sunny Saturday afternoon in Autumn, so Vallée Chaude was an ideal choice.

All the boulders in Vallée Chaude are spread far apart from each other, and the small beautiful roof of "Complainte de Vallée" still seems completely isolated from the other boulders.
I had already noticed the boulder when I was doing a long walk one day before Manuel (Marquès) opened two hard lines on them.
Both start lying down on the small boulder, climb through the roof and exit left for the 7B version or with a dynamic move to a small pocket on the right, which is 7C.
Both are really physical climbing with bad footholds, so require a lot of body tension.

It took a while before I found a good method, but I was able to top out the left exit, "Complainte de Vallée (gauche)". Even though it could be worth 7B+ according to me.
I was able to do all the moves of the right exit, could even do the problem in two overlapping parts, but my body said no.
I'm sure that when I come back fresh and rested, that I will be able to send it completely.

It's a beautiful little roof in total calmness!

Fontainebleau - Vallée Chaude - Complainte de Vallée (gauche) 7B




I then still went to Roche aux Oiseaux to spot Mathias (Eykmans) who wanted to do his second 7A of the year with "Ca Tend à Droite".
I used the occasion to work in "Satan m'Habite", of which I'm now able to quite easily reach to the start of the standing version. This could go down soon.

Mathias was able to finish "Ca Tend à Droite" and even repeated it again for his camera. Even though the second time took more tries than his first repeat.
Would that make it his third 7A? In any case, well done!

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