Sunday, April 13, 2025

April 13, 2025 - New wave.

After a rainy evening and night, it looked like there would no climbing possible this morning, but while strolling around in La Fontaine Saint-Bernard, I laid my eyes on a wave-shaped boulder and imagined a possible logical, but yet unopened line. I went back to the car to get some harder brushes to get the moss off, and the more I brushed, the better the line started to look. There was a mild wind, and the boulder dried quite quickly in the few places where it was still humid. I was pleasantly surprised to see that I would even be able to try it and went back again to the car to get the crashpad and my climbing stuff. 
The movement that I had imagined felt weird at first, and maybe even a bit too morpho for my size. After some finetuning and some more brushing for the feet, I finally managed to stick the far move to the sloper on the edge of the wave. Some more brushing of the top part later, I also managed to do the topout, and I knew I was ready for the actual sitstart.
I turned on the camera, and was able to send it right away. The new wave that I named "Vague de la Fontaine", was born.
Sitstart with both hands on a relatively good hold and both feet on a big ledge. Take a diagonal crimp left hand and then make a big move to a sloper on the edge of the wave right hand. Finish with a mantle slightly right.

The boulder is located right next to the blue path, to the right of it, 30m after "Le Travail d'Hercule", when coming from the parking of the Châlet Jaubert, aka the parking of Dame Jouanne.
I estimate the grade to be around 7B, but very likely slightly easier for taller climbers.

UPDATE: this is apparently "La Lordose", opened by Olivier Joanon years ago. This definitely felt much harder than the proposed 6C+, and I'm sticking with a personal grade of rather 7B.

Fontainebleau - La Fontaine Saint-Bernard - La Lordose 6C+(7B)

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