Saturday, November 16, 2024

November 16, 2024 - In sync.

Last Monday I went back to Buthiers Ouest to try "Synchronicité" again, and even though the conditions were slightly better than the day before, my skin was almost completely through and I again kept on falling on the last move. When I left, I thought that it really felt like a good 7B+ so far.
Determined to finish it, I went back this morning with even better conditions and more skin on my fingertips. My warmup attempt flowed and I felt in sync with the moves, until the last, where I fell off again. Searching for a more controlled way to do the end, I reverted back to using a right toehook when doing the last move, and surprisingly stuck it very controlled. I had tried this same method last week, but somehow there was no way for my toehook to stick and kept slipping out. Now it didn't seem like a problem.
I went for my second attempt of the day, used the toehook and quite easily stuck the last move and mantled up. Now it felt more like 7B.

Fontainebleau - Buthiers Ouest - Synchronicité 7B(7B+)



Afterwards, I was finally able to also try "Pouce Doudou", which was wet last week, but not today. It took some time, but after a while, I was able to do all the moves except for the last one. A huge and quite scary move to a bad sloper. Unfortunately, it's not possible to work out that move separately without a rope, but it did allow me to find a good comfortable sequence up to there. I came very close a few times, but the very bad sloper left hand on the North side of the boulder definitely could use some better conditions. For sure a problem that I will go back for some time soon.
"Appui Coude" on the same boulder, shares the same first move, but stays on the South-Western side of the boulder. I was able to do this with relative ease and was a good way to end today's session.

Fontainebleau - Buthiers Ouest - Appui Coude 6C+(7A)

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