The first one, was "Apnéiste", which in my opinion is definitely 7B when you don't have long legs. It felt quite morpho, and I even didn't see it possible to do the first far move without a kneepad. Without it, my leg didn't even fit to establish the kneebar. The conditions were mediocre at first, but while working out the moves separately, it only got better.
A nice problem totally worth the effort!
Fontainebleau - Apremont Envers - Apnéiste 7B
On my to "Electro Style" in the far sector of the area, I stopped at a few other problems, but didn't get further than only seeing them, keeping them for some other time.
"Electro Style" though, looked really nice despite my first thought that I didn't have a clue how to approach this one. I was determined to work it out, but I couldn't find a way to avoid a painful hand jam, jamming the left pinky until it's almost torn off. A good layer of tape did a good job helping me cope with it and I soon found a way for the other moves to get out of the roof, after which the holds are good and the topout quite easy. When I got there quite unexpectedly though, a slight panic moment trying not to fall got over me, but I topped out, leaving aesthetics way behind me. I didn't care, I made it and was glad with the ascent. All in all, also a very nice problem well worth the detour!
"Electro Style" though, looked really nice despite my first thought that I didn't have a clue how to approach this one. I was determined to work it out, but I couldn't find a way to avoid a painful hand jam, jamming the left pinky until it's almost torn off. A good layer of tape did a good job helping me cope with it and I soon found a way for the other moves to get out of the roof, after which the holds are good and the topout quite easy. When I got there quite unexpectedly though, a slight panic moment trying not to fall got over me, but I topped out, leaving aesthetics way behind me. I didn't care, I made it and was glad with the ascent. All in all, also a very nice problem well worth the detour!
Fontainebleau - Apremont Envers - Electro Style 7B
No comments:
Post a Comment