Saturday, January 25, 2020

January 25, 2020 - Not my luck.

From Monday to Thursday, the conditions were just perfect. Cold with a blue sky and a breeze from the East make a perfect recipe for best conditions.
Sadly enough, it was just not my luck as I had too much going on at work at the same time and had a deadline to make. There was no room to take a few hours off work during the day and get my share of conditions that are exceptional.
The 8C's and 8B's were being sent like flies on a turd, but I didn't even come close to touching any sandstone, it was not my luck.
Yesterday though, the temperature started rising again and the breeze was gone; which resulted in the air humidity going up to 100%, making the sandstone and, causing it to lose the best friction.

This morning was hopeful when I parked in Le Vaudoué and set off to Rocher Fin, stopping briefly at Rocher de Diplodocus to get a sense of  how it felt. It weren't the good conditions from earlier this week, but the first impression was not too bad.
The harder problems that I wanted to try in Rocher Fin felt still too damp, but with "Hackebärli Fin" in the isolated North part of the sector, I had found myself a nice and fun warmup.

Fontainebleau - Rocher Fin - Hackebärli Fin 7A




With the rising temperature, there the nightly frost started melting though and gave the boulders an even more damp feeling. Slopers that feel sticky at first became fast humid, leaving dark traces where the hand came in contact with them.
"El Kift" and "La Micholeg (assis)" felt too slippery after a while, so I left in search for some more luck, but unfortunately, it was not mine and the warmup stayed remained my only top for the day.

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