The sky looked threatening, as if it could rain any moment, so I wanted to stay close and went to the nearby Roche au Oiseaux to try "Satan m'Habite". Quite a while ago, I had worked out all the moves, but wasn't able to make the dynamic move to the jug anymore after having done all those previous moves. I knew that I could do it, if only I could keep the continuity in movement.
Despite the early hour, two other French climbers arrived when I had worked out the moves again, which resulted in a nice stack of crashpads lined up. Definitely not a luxury with the rocky exposed landing. It seemed to have given me enough confidence, because it was still before 9h30 when I finished "Satan m'Habite". I was pumped though.
This is truly a stunning line on an even more stunning boulder, and should be on every climber's 'want-list'.
Fontainebleau - Roche aux Oiseaux - Satan m'Habite 7B+
Still not a single drop had fallen, and I moved to Rocher de la Cathédrale to try "Love les Tartes".
The bad sweaty skin on my scraped fingertips decided differently, so I turned to "Sexy Sushi" on the boulder next to it instead.
It was only after seeing a video of the opener, Guillaume Joubert, that I was able to determine how to start and what to do.
The first part, until halfway is definitely the hardest, which makes the easy second part also quite hard getting pumped like I was.
Luckily, I have started taking some dried raisins with me, the small energy boost that they gave me was just enough for me to make it through to the end. I was catching my breath and was completely pumped.
The bad sweaty skin on my scraped fingertips decided differently, so I turned to "Sexy Sushi" on the boulder next to it instead.
It was only after seeing a video of the opener, Guillaume Joubert, that I was able to determine how to start and what to do.
The first part, until halfway is definitely the hardest, which makes the easy second part also quite hard getting pumped like I was.
Luckily, I have started taking some dried raisins with me, the small energy boost that they gave me was just enough for me to make it through to the end. I was catching my breath and was completely pumped.
Fontainebleau - Rocher de la Cathédrale - Sexy Sushi 7B
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